Pommard is the most powerful red wine of the Côte de Beaune: dark cherry, plum and earth, carried by a firm frame of tannin that asks for a little patience and repays it. The village sits between Beaune and Volnay in the heart of Burgundy, and it makes red wine only, from Pinot Noir.
Pommard wine: structured Pinot Noir from the Côte de Beaune
Pommard became an appellation in its own right in 1937, and the rules allow red wine only. Pinot Noir is the grape. A small share of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris is permitted, but almost nobody uses it. The vineyards spread out on both sides of the village and climb the slope to the west, where limestone meets clay soils rich in iron.
That soil is what gives Pommard its character. Its neighbour Volnay is known for light, perfumed, elegant reds; Pommard is darker, denser and more tannic. A young Pommard can feel tight, but after five to ten years in bottle the fruit fills out and notes of leather, forest floor and truffle come through.
Pommard Premier Cru: Rugiens, Epenots and the other climats
Pommard has no grand cru, but 27 climats are classified as premier cru. Two names always come first. Les Rugiens, split into Rugiens-Bas and Rugiens-Hauts, takes its name from its reddish, iron-rich soil and gives the deepest, most structured wines in the village; Jean-Marc Bouley's Rugiens from 2005 and 2009 show how they open up with age. Les Grands Epenots and Les Petits Epenots lie on the Beaune side of the village and tend towards a more fragrant, silky style, as in Jean Gagnerot's Grands Epenots.
Within the Epenots lies Clos des Épeneaux, a monopole of Domaine du Comte Armand, offered here across a run of vintages from mature 1997 and 2000 to the latest releases. Château de Pommard has its own monopole, Clos Marey-Monge, a walled clos around the château. Other premiers crus worth knowing include Les Charmots, Les Arvelets, Les Pézerolles, La Platière, La Chanière and Les Chaponnières.
The producers: from Comte Armand to Domaine Parigot
Domaine Parigot is here in depth, from the village wines Les Vignots and Les Riottes to premiers crus from Les Charmots, Clos de la Chanière and Les Epenots. Vincent Dancer makes Pézerolles and Perrières, Domaine A.F. Gros and Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot bottle Les Arvelets, and Domaine Henri de Villamont Les Charmots. Domaine Launay-Horiot farms its vines in Pommard and makes Les Chaponnières, Les Perrières and Clos Blanc, which despite its name is a red premier cru. Dugat-Py, best known for Gevrey-Chambertin, makes a Pommard Les Vaumuriens from very old vines. For village Pommard, Domaine Arcelain, Hubert Lignier, Domaine Berthelemot and Joillot are good places to start.
Pommard with food
Pommard's tannin and dark fruit call for food with some weight. Roast beef, duck breast, lamb and game such as venison or pheasant are the classics, and a mushroom sauce or a porcini risotto brings out the earthy side of a mature bottle. On the cheese board, a washed-rind cheese like Époisses, from the same part of France, is a good match. Serve Pommard at 16 to 17°C and give young vintages an hour in a decanter.
To compare it with Burgundy's other great villages, try a red from Nuits-Saint-Georges, or move from red to white with a Meursault from just down the road in the Côte de Beaune.
Pommard FAQ
What grape is Pommard wine made from?
Pinot Noir. The appellation allows red wine only, and although a little white grape is permitted in the blend, nearly every Pommard is pure Pinot Noir.
Is there a Pommard grand cru?
No. The best vineyards are classified as Pommard 1er Cru, and Les Rugiens and Les Epenots are regarded as the finest of them.
What is Château de Pommard?
An estate in the village whose Clos Marey-Monge comes from a walled vineyard owned entirely by the château, a monopole.
How long does Pommard age?
Village Pommard usually drinks well from five to ten years after the harvest, while a premier cru from Rugiens or Epenots in a good year can develop for twenty years or more.