For most of the twentieth century Aligoté existed to be mixed with a splash of crème de cassis and called Kir. It was Burgundy's leftover grape, planted on the flatter, less prized ground that Chardonnay did not want.
Bouzeron changes the story
That reputation is dated. Bouzeron, in the Côte Chalonnaise, is the only village in Burgundy with its own appellation for Aligoté rather than Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, and its wines show why growers now take the grape seriously: high acidity carried by real texture, citrus and a flinty, saline finish that improves for years rather than fading.
The serious end
Domaine Ponsot's Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants, planted in 1911 and technically a premier cru, is the grape's most celebrated single site, made from vines old enough that the appellation authorities still classify the wine as Aligoté rather than downgrade it. Lalou Bize-Leroy's d'Auvenay estate makes an equally serious version, proof that Aligoté rewards the same low yields and old vines that define great Chardonnay.
FAQ
Is Aligoté the same as Chardonnay?
No, a separate variety with higher natural acidity and less body. It was long considered Chardonnay's inferior neighbour, but old-vine examples from Bouzeron and a handful of premier cru sites show it can age and impress on its own terms.
What is Bouzeron?
A village appellation in Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise reserved entirely for Aligoté, the only place in Burgundy where the grape gets that recognition rather than being blended into generic Bourgogne Aligoté.
Should I still use Aligoté for a Kir?
You can, and cheaper examples are still made with that in mind. But the better bottlings from Bouzeron and old-vine sites are worth drinking on their own, unmixed.