Hermitage is a single hill above the town of Tain-l'Hermitage in the northern Rhône: about 137 hectares of steep, south-facing terraces looking down on the river. It is one of the smallest of France's great appellations, and since the 19th century one of its most prized wines, in red and in white. It should not be confused with Crozes-Hermitage, the much larger appellation that surrounds it.
Hermitage wine: the great Syrah of the northern Rhône
Red Hermitage is made from Syrah. The rules allow up to 15 percent of the white grapes Marsanne and Roussanne, though the leading estates use little or none. Young, the wine is dark, smoky and tightly built, with blackcurrant, black pepper and violets. With age it moves towards leather, truffle and game,. White Hermitage, from Marsanne with a little Roussanne, is broad and honeyed, with almond, quince and a firm mineral core. It often closes up for a few years after release and then comes back richer, which is why collectors hold on to it as long as they do the reds.
Granite, loess and the lieux-dits of the hill
The hill is not uniform. Les Bessards in the west sits on granite and gives the structure. Le Méal in the centre, on stones and limestone, is warmer and gives ripeness and breadth. Les Greffieux, lower down on richer soil, brings suppleness. Classic Hermitage blends several of these sites, while some producers bottle one on its own, such as Chapoutier's Le Méal and Delas Frères' Les Bessards.
The producers behind Hermitage La Chapelle, Chave and Ex-Voto
The name comes from the knight Gaspard de Sterimberg, who is said to have returned from the Albigensian Crusade in the 13th century and lived as a hermit on the hill, where he planted vines. The small chapel of Saint-Christophe at the top still stands, and it gives its name to Paul Jaboulet Aîné's Hermitage La Chapelle, in red and white and in large formats up to the 18-litre Solomon. Jean-Louis Chave, perhaps the most respected family on the hill, is represented in red and white across older and recent vintages.
E. Guigal makes both a classic Hermitage and the Ermitage Ex-Voto, in red and white. Chapoutier has Le Méal and the white L'Orée, and Delas Frères brings Les Bessards and Domaine des Tourettes. You will also find Domaine des Remizières' Cuvée Emilie, Ferraton Père & Fils' Les Miaux and Dard et Ribo, whose Hermitage is made in the natural, low-intervention style the domaine is known for.
Serving, ageing and food with red and white Hermitage
A young red Hermitage is best decanted for an hour or two and served at 16 to 18 degrees. It is a natural partner for venison, braised beef, lamb shoulder and aged hard cheese. The whites are best served only lightly chilled, with roast chicken, veal in a cream sauce or richer fish dishes. If you want to follow Syrah further up the river, Côte-Rôtie is the obvious next step, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape shows the warmer, Grenache-led south.
Frequently asked questions about Hermitage
What is the difference between Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage?
Hermitage is the hill itself, with its steep granite slopes. Crozes-Hermitage surrounds it and is more than ten times larger, much of it on flatter land. Both are Syrah, but Crozes-Hermitage is fruitier and made to be drunk younger.
Why is it sometimes spelled Ermitage?
Ermitage is the older spelling, and it is still permitted. Guigal and Chapoutier use it on some of their top cuvées, such as the Ermitage Ex-Voto and Ermitage Le Méal.
What grapes are used in Hermitage?
Red Hermitage is Syrah, with up to 15 percent Marsanne and Roussanne allowed. White Hermitage is made from Marsanne and Roussanne.
How long can Hermitage be aged?
A great red Hermitage needs at least a decade and can last for several more. The whites age just as well, often passing through a closed phase before opening up again.
Is Australian Hermitage the same wine?
No. Australian producers once used "Hermitage" as a name for Shiraz, but the name now belongs to the French appellation. Hermitage on this page means wine from the hill at Tain-l'Hermitage.