Pessac-Léognan is the only one of Bordeaux' major appellations as celebrated for its white wine as its red. Château Haut-Brion is here, and so are some of the longest-lived dry whites in the world. Here is our selection.
Northern Graves, and Bordeaux' oldest wine estate
The appellation was only created in 1987, when the northern and best part of Graves was carved out under its own name. The area reaches into the suburbs of Bordeaux itself, and several châteaux effectively sit within the city.
It is also home to one of the oldest documented addresses in wine. Château Haut-Brion was named in English sources as early as the seventeenth century and is the only red-wine estate outside the Haut-Médoc included in the 1855 classification. Graves has its own separate classification from 1959, in which estates can be listed for red, white or both.
Gravel ridges that ripen both colours
Graves takes its name from gravel, and the gravel ridges are what make the place. They store heat through the day, release it at night and drain quickly after rain. On the same ground both Cabernet Sauvignon and the white varieties reach full ripeness.
The reds resemble the Médoc but often carry a smoky, earthy note that tasters describe as warm brick or hot stone. The whites are made from Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, fermented and aged in oak, and they develop in a direction few other white wines manage. Where most dry whites should be drunk young, a Pessac-Léognan blanc can improve for a decade or more.
The châteaux we stock
Château Haut-Brion is the centre of our selection, reaching past €5,300, alongside its second wine Le Clarence de Haut-Brion. Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion has become one of the area's most talked-about names in a short time, working with an unusually high proportion of Cabernet Franc.
Château Pape Clément and Domaine de Chevalier are the classic addresses, the latter known for its white as much as its red. Château Haut-Bailly represents a restrained, finely drawn style, while Château Carbonnieux offers an accessible route in from around €44.
Red or white, and when to open it
A common mistake is treating the white as a summer wine. A young Pessac-Léognan blanc is tight and marked by oak, and it needs either a few years in the cellar or serious food to show what it can do. If you open one young, do not serve it ice cold. Around twelve degrees makes more difference than people expect.
On the red side the same timeframes apply as in the Médoc. 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2019 are strong vintages, while 2021 gave lighter wines that mature earlier. Estates closest to the city often ripen slightly faster, thanks to the warmth of the built-up area around them.
Frequently asked questions about Pessac-Léognan
What is the difference between Graves and Pessac-Léognan?
Pessac-Léognan is the northern, most highly regarded part of Graves and became its own appellation in 1987. The rest of the area is still called Graves.
Is Pessac-Léognan red or white?
Both. Red dominates by volume, but the appellation is equally known for its dry whites from Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.
How long can a white Pessac-Léognan be cellared?
Considerably longer than most dry whites. Good bottles develop over ten to twenty years, shifting from citrus and chalk towards honey, nuts and toast.
What food goes with Pessac-Léognan?
The reds with lamb, duck and grilled meat. The whites with lobster, scallops, chicken in cream sauce and aged cheese, where the wine's weight and oak have something to work against.
What does a Pessac-Léognan cost?
Our selection starts around €44. Classified estates usually run between €100 and €350, with Haut-Brion in a class of its own.