Carménère: Bordeaux's lost grape that became Chile's signature
Carménère is a red grape from the Médoc and was once one of the six classic red varieties of Bordeaux, also known as Grande Vidure. The name comes from the French word for crimson, a nod to the deep red colour its leaves turn in autumn. After phylloxera devastated Bordeaux in the 19th century, the grape was all but abandoned in France, because it was hard to grow and gave small yields. Very little remains in Bordeaux today, but a few châteaux still keep it. Château Clerc Milon in Pauillac has a small plot of Carménère planted in 1947 that goes into the blend in small amounts.
The variety survived in Chile, where cuttings from Bordeaux were planted in the 19th century. There it was mistaken for Merlot for more than a hundred years and picked alongside it. Only in 1994 did the French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot identify the vines as Carménère, and Chile officially recognised the variety in 1998. Since then Carménère has become the country's signature grape, and Chile has the largest plantings in the world.
What does Carménère wine taste like?
Carménère makes deeply coloured red wines with aromas of red and dark berries, cherry, spice and often a hint of smoke or earth. The tannins are softer than in Cabernet Sauvignon and the body is usually medium, so the wines are approachable young. The grape ripens late and needs a long, dry growing season. Picked too early, it shows obvious green pepper and herbal notes; fully ripe fruit gives a softer, fruit-led style with a spicy edge.
Varietal Chilean Carménère and the great Chilean blends
For the grape on its own, look to Haras de Pirque Carmenere Ecral Gran Reserva from Maipo, Casa La Tenca Reserva Carmenere and Espino Carmenere. Maquis Gran Reserva pairs Carménère with Cabernet Sauvignon, as does Haras de Pirque Albis.
Carménère is also a key spice component in Chile's icon wines. Seña from Aconcagua, first made by Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi in 1995, and Almaviva from Puente Alto, a joint venture between Concha y Toro and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, blend the grape with Cabernet Sauvignon and other varieties. Almaviva is here in several vintages and in magnum and imperial. Errázuriz's Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve and Coyam from Colchagua follow the same idea. Browse all Chilean wine for more producers.
Carménère from Italy and Bordeaux
In Italy Carménère was long mistaken for Cabernet Franc, and it grows mainly in the Veneto and Friuli. Inama in the Colli Berici has made it a speciality, and its Riserva Oratorio di San Lorenzo comes from a vineyard around a small 16th century chapel. The grape also appears in Poggio alle Nane from Antinori's Le Mortelle estate in the Maremma. From Bordeaux there is Château Clerc Milon in several vintages, where Carménère is only a small part of the blend.
Food pairing with Carménère
The spicy, supple style suits grilled beef, lamb and pork, and the grape's herbal side makes it a good partner for dishes with peppers, cumin and fresh herbs. The big blends such as Seña and Almaviva call for richer food, such as roast beef or game.
Carménère FAQ
Is Carménère the same as Merlot?
No. The two grapes look alike in the vineyard and were confused in Chile until 1994, but Carménère ripens two to three weeks later than Merlot and has more spice and herbal character.
Where does the Carménère grape come from?
It comes from the Médoc in Bordeaux, but today it is mostly associated with Chile, including Colchagua, Cachapoal and Maipo. It is also grown in northern Italy.
Is Carménère a full-bodied wine?
Usually medium-bodied, with dark berries, cherry, spice and a hint of green pepper, and softer tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon. The Chilean icon blends are fuller.
What temperature should Carménère be served at?
Slightly cool, around 16 to 18°C, so the fruit and spice come through.