Peter Wetzer Kékfrankos Spern Steiner 2020

Peter Wetzer Kékfrankos Spern Steiner 2020 is a characterful red from one of Sopron’s finest single vineyards, crafted from old-vine Blaufränkisch (known locally as Kékfrankos and in Germany as Lemberger). This bottling showcases the grape’s deep, spicy fruit and the tension of its cool-climate origin, all expressed through low-intervention, detail-focused winemaking. Coming from 60+ year-old vines rooted in poor slate and quartz soils, it offers a vivid, terroir-driven snapshot of Western Hungary’s historic red-wine heartland.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the wine shows a deep, vibrant ruby color with a translucent edge that hints at both concentration and freshness. The nose is powerful and almost explosive, opening with layers of dark berries—especially blackberry—wrapped in notes of juniper, bay leaf, peppermint, violet and a subtle stony minerality. On the palate, it is at once juicy and full-bodied yet distinctly cool and precise, with a fine, refreshing acidity that keeps the dark fruit lively rather than heavy. Silky, well-knit tannins provide structure without harshness, carrying flavors of ripe blackberry, black cherry, crushed herbs and a hint of spicy undergrowth. The finish is long, savory and energetic, suggesting excellent aging potential; this vintage should evolve beautifully over 8–12 years, gaining more aromatic complexity and integrating its structure even further.

Production
The Spern Steiner site sits on poor, rocky slate with veins of quartz, giving naturally low yields and a pronounced mineral backbone to the wines. Peter Wetzer farms the old vines—over 60 years of age—organically, though without formal certification, emphasizing soil health and biodiversity. Grapes are selectively hand-harvested to ensure perfect ripeness and quality, then fully destemmed and fermented in open vats with indigenous yeasts over roughly three weeks. After a gentle maceration and spontaneous fermentation, the wine is aged on fine lees in used 300–1,000L wooden barrels, chosen to avoid dominant oak flavors. Apart from a minimal sulfur addition just before bottling, no additives or technological interventions are used, allowing the vineyard and vintage character to speak clearly.

Food & Serving
This Kékfrankos is a superb match for herb-crusted lamb, roasted duck, game birds, venison, or slow-braised beef, as well as mushroom dishes, grilled sausages and hearty root-vegetable stews. It also pairs beautifully with aged hard cheeses and charcuterie featuring juniper or pepper. Serve at 16–18°C (around 60–64°F) for optimal expression of fruit and spice. Decanting for 30–60 minutes is recommended, especially in its youth, to allow the wine’s aromatic complexity and silky texture to fully unfurl.

Producer
Péter Wetzer is a leading artisan producer in Sopron, a historic wine region on Hungary’s western border long associated with Blaufränkisch/Kékfrankos. After gaining experience in both local and international cellars, he returned to focus on small, characterful parcels and old vines, working with a philosophy that champions organic farming and minimal intervention in the winery. His holdings include some of the area’s most prized sites on slate and quartz soils, and he has become an important voice in the revival of Sopron as a source of elegant, age-worthy reds. Known for purity, precision and terroir transparency, Wetzer’s wines are now sought after by enthusiasts looking for authentic, finely crafted Central European reds.

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