Hungary is one of Europe's great wine countries, home to Tokaji, the original noble-rot sweet wine, and to a new wave of bone-dry Furmint and seriously structured reds. It rewards anyone willing to look past the usual names, with native grapes and volcanic soils you will not find anywhere else.
Tokaji and the rise of dry Furmint
Tokaj, in the northeast, is the oldest classified wine region in the world and the birthplace of noble rot. Its legendary Tokaji Aszú is made from botrytised Furmint and Hárslevelű, graded in puttonyos by how many baskets of shrivelled grapes go into each cask. Louis XIV called it "the wine of kings and the king of wines", and it still ranks among the finest dessert wines on earth. The same growers now make thrilling bone-dry Furmint too, taut and smoky with real mineral drive, one of the most exciting white wines coming out of Europe right now.
Egri Bikavér and the bold reds of Villány
Hungary's reds deserve just as much attention. In Eger they blend the famous Egri Bikavér, or Bull's Blood, a spicy, savoury red built around Kékfrankos with Kadarka and others in support. Further south, Villány is the country's warmest region and its finest address for Bordeaux blends of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, alongside juicy Kékfrankos. Together they make some of Central Europe's most characterful red wines. If you are new to the country, a dry Furmint and a good bottle of Bikavér are the perfect place to start.
Hungarian wine FAQ
What does Tokaji taste like, and what should I eat with it?
Sweet Tokaji Aszú is rich and honeyed but kept lively by bright acidity, with apricot, orange peel and marmalade. It is a classic match for foie gras and salty blue cheeses like Roquefort, and it works beautifully with fruit tarts. Browse more dessert wines if you love the style.
What is Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood)?
It is a dry red blend from Eger, led by Kékfrankos and made from at least three grapes. Expect spice, dark fruit and gentle tannin, which makes it ideal with goulash, roast meats and mushroom dishes.
Which Hungarian grapes should I try first?
Start with Furmint for the whites and Kékfrankos for the reds, the two signatures of the country. From there, explore Hárslevelű and Kadarka for something genuinely different.