TR Tokaji Aszú 2017

TR Tokaji Aszú 2017 is a rare, handcrafted sweet wine from the historic Tokaj region of Hungary – long celebrated as the “wine of kings, king of wines.” Produced in a tiny cult quantity of just 700 half-bottles, this is an intensely concentrated yet beautifully balanced dessert wine that captures the essence of noble rot (botrytis) Furmint. With its royal pedigree and centuries of admiration from European courts, this modern Aszú combines deep tradition with the fresh energy of a new-generation Tokaj producer.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, TR Tokaji Aszú 2017 shows a glowing, deep golden to amber hue, hinting at both its richness and its slow-evolving character. The nose is wonderfully expressive and layered, with notes of ripe apricot, dried orange peel, acacia honey, marzipan and candied citrus, supported by subtle vanilla and gentle toasted spice from Hungarian oak. On the palate, the wine is lusciously sweet yet strikingly precise, with around 160 g/L of residual sugar lifted by a vibrant 6.5 g/L of acidity. Expect a silky, glycerol texture carrying flavors of apricot jam, quince paste, honeycomb, almond cream and a touch of caramelized nuts, all wrapped in a distinct volcanic minerality from Tokaj. The low alcohol (9.5%) keeps the wine airy and digestible, and the finish is extraordinarily long, lingering for minutes with notes of honey, stone fruit and sweet spice. Thanks to its high sugar and acidity, this 2017 Aszú has excellent aging potential and will continue to develop greater complexity and tertiary notes (toffee, dried fruits, nuts) over the next 20–30 years or more if well cellared.

Production
The grapes for TR Tokaji Aszú 2017 come from the Palota Vineyard in the village of Tállya, in the heart of the historic Tokaj wine region. This is a volcanic terroir that imparts a clear mineral backbone and supports the ideal balance of sugar and acidity in the grapes. Here, morning mists and humid conditions encourage the development of botrytis cinerea – the so-called noble rot – which slowly dehydrates the berries, concentrating sugars, acids and flavors. Aszú berries are painstakingly harvested by hand, one by one, typically in October and November, in an extremely labor-intensive process where a picker may gather only about 7 kg per day. For this cuvée, 90% Furmint and 10% Hárslevelű Aszú berries were macerated with finished base wine from healthy grapes for 48 hours before being gently pressed. Fermentation proceeded with indigenous yeasts over roughly 1.5 months, after which the wine was aged for 24 months in lightly toasted Hungarian oak, allowing oxygen and oak nuance to integrate without overwhelming the purity of fruit and terroir expression.

Food & Serving
TR Tokaji Aszú 2017 is a natural partner for richly flavored desserts and savory dishes alike. It pairs beautifully with classic sweet desserts such as crème brûlée, apricot tart, almond cake, fruit-based pastries and custards, as well as blue cheeses like Roquefort, Gorgonzola or Stilton. It also works wonderfully with foie gras or pâté, where its sweetness and acidity cut through richness and elevate the dish. Serve well chilled, ideally at 10–12°C (50–54°F), in small white wine or dessert wine glasses to fully appreciate the aromatics. Younger bottles will benefit from being opened a little in advance, and a brief, gentle decant of 15–30 minutes can help the wine open up aromatically, though long decanting is not necessary. Enjoy it now for its vibrant fruit, or keep it in the cellar for decades as a contemplative glass on its own at the end of a meal.

Producer
TR Wines is a young, dynamic estate based in the village of Tállya in Tokaj, founded by passionate wine enthusiasts who set out in 2012 to rejuvenate this historic landscape. After multiple visits and extensive walks through the vineyards, they selected the Palota Vineyard – a compact 3.5-hectare site on volcanic soils – as their home. The estate farms 15–40-year-old vines with an organic approach (organic certification from 2020/21), focusing on biodiversity and the natural resilience of the vines: no systemic chemical sprays are used, only contact treatments to support the plants’ own defenses. TR Wines represents the new generation of Tokaj producers, combining respect for tradition (especially in sweet styles such as édés, szamorodni and aszú) with a lighter touch of oak, freshness and precision. Their meticulous, low-intervention methods and extremely small production runs have quickly earned them a reputation among insiders for characterful, terroir-driven wines that showcase both the volcanic origins and the legendary natural sweetness of Tokaj.

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