Weingut Ziereisen Jaspis Würmlin Grauer Burgunder Alte Reben 2023 white

Weingut Ziereisen’s Jaspis Würmlin Grauer Burgunder Alte Reben 2022 is a serious, terroir-driven expression of Pinot Gris from the rolling hills of Baden in southern Germany. Sourced from old vines (“Alte Reben”) in the Würmlin site, this is a concentrated, textural white that leans more toward Burgundian elegance than easy-drinking Pinot Grigio. Crafted in small quantities, it showcases the full potential of Grauburgunder when treated as a fine, ageworthy wine rather than a simple everyday quaffer.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2022 Jaspis Würmlin Grauer Burgunder Alte Reben typically shows a deep straw to light golden hue, reflecting both old-vine concentration and careful élevage. The nose is refined yet expressive, with aromas of ripe pear, quince, yellow apple and mirabelle plum layered over notes of roasted hazelnut, wet stone, subtle smoke and a touch of brioche. Hints of dried herbs and citrus zest add complexity as it opens. On the palate, this wine is structured and textural rather than overtly fruity, with a fine, chalky-mineral backbone and a generous, almost Burgundian mouthfeel. Expect flavors of baked pear, citrus oil, grilled stone fruit and almond, supported by vibrant but well-integrated acidity and a gentle phenolic grip that brings length and gastronomic appeal. The finish is long and saline, with a lingering impression of spice and stone. While already enjoyable in its youth, this cuvée has the stuffing to develop further complexity over 5–8 years in a good cellar, gaining more nutty, honeyed and smoky nuances with time.

Production
The Jaspis Würmlin Grauer Burgunder Alte Reben is drawn from low-yielding, old vineyards in the Würmlin parcel of Baden, where limestone-rich and loess soils, combined with the region’s warm, sunny climate and cool nights, give Pinot Gris both ripeness and precision. Ziereisen is known for meticulous, largely manual work in the vineyard, including careful bunch selection and relatively low intervention to let the site speak clearly. Grapes are hand-harvested at optimal ripeness, gently pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts, often in large neutral oak or used barrels to build texture without overt oak flavour. Extended lees contact and slow maturation prior to bottling contribute to the wine’s depth, creaminess and ageworthy structure, while minimal filtration preserves its natural character.

Food & Serving
This is a superb food wine that shines with richer dishes: think roasted poultry, veal in cream sauce, pork tenderloin, mushroom dishes, and refined vegetable cuisines such as risotto with porcini or pumpkin and sage. It also pairs beautifully with alpine cheeses, smoked fish, and subtly spiced Asian cuisine (miso-glazed cod, pork gyoza, or mildly spiced Thai curries). Serve lightly chilled at about 10–12°C (50–54°F); serving it too cold will mute its texture and complexity. Decanting for 30–45 minutes is recommended, especially in its youth, to allow the wine to unfurl its layered aromatics and mineral depth.

Producer
Weingut Ziereisen is a highly regarded family estate based in Efringen-Kirchen in southern Baden, near the Swiss and French borders, an area increasingly recognized for its distinctive, terroir-driven wines. Under the guidance of Hanspeter and Edel Ziereisen, the estate has gained a strong reputation for low-intervention, artisanal winemaking, with a particular focus on Pinot varieties and wines that express their limestone-rich soils with clarity. Working predominantly by hand and favouring spontaneous fermentations, long élevage and minimal manipulation, Ziereisen has become one of the leading names in Baden’s quality renaissance, attracting international attention from sommeliers and collectors who seek characterful, ageworthy German wines beyond the classic Riesling paradigm.

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