Nervi-Conterno Vigna Valferana Gattinara 2018 MG

Nervi-Conterno Vigna Valferana Gattinara 2018 in magnum is a deeply etched, site-driven expression of Nebbiolo from the volcanic hills of northern Piemonte. From a single, west‑facing cru at 300–350 meters, it captures the cooler, more focused side of Gattinara, with structure and precision that invite long aging. Bottled in 1.5 L, this is a collector’s format that allows the wine’s fine tannins and complex aromatics to evolve gracefully over time.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2018 Vigna Valferana shows a luminous, transparent garnet with orange-tinged rims—classic Nebbiolo color, but with an extra clarity that hints at its cooler site. The nose is finely detailed and evolving, opening with blue flowers and rose petals, followed by sour cherry, red currant, and blood orange. With air, notes of tobacco smoke, forest floor, dried herbs, and candied orange peel emerge, all wrapped in a subtle mineral and ferrous edge that speaks of volcanic soils. On the palate, the wine is tightly chiseled and energetic rather than opulent—a more linear, focused expression compared to the broader, more concentrated Molsino. The attack is taut and precise, with sour cherry, pomegranate, and wild strawberry framed by vibrant acidity. The mid-palate reveals layers of spice, tea leaf, dried rose, and a faint balsamic note, carried by a pronounced, yet refined tannic backbone. The extra tannic edge here is an asset: in magnum, this 2018 is built for the long haul, with a drinking window that comfortably spans 10–20+ years, gaining complexity, silkier texture, and tertiary notes of truffle and cigar box over time.

Production
Vigna Valferana is a historic single vineyard in Gattinara, in Alto Piemonte, planted on poor, mineral-rich volcanic and porphyry soils with abundant stones and excellent drainage. The plot faces west at around 300–350 meters above sea level, giving long, gentle afternoon light and cooler overall conditions, which help preserve acidity and detail in the Nebbiolo grapes. Yields are kept low and harvesting is done by hand, vine by vine, to ensure that only perfectly ripe clusters make it to the cellar. In line with traditional Alto Piemonte practices, the grapes undergo a long, gentle maceration to extract fine tannins and aromatic nuance rather than sheer power. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled tanks, followed by extended maturation in large neutral wooden casks (often large Slavonian or similar botti), allowing the wine to harmonize slowly without masking its terroir. The magnum format further enhances its aging curve, protecting freshness while the structure mellows over time.

Food & Serving
This Gattinara is a natural partner for classic northern Italian dishes and refined, savory cuisine. Think braised veal shank (ossobuco), slow-cooked beef cheeks, lamb shoulder with herbs, or game birds with porcini mushrooms. It also pairs beautifully with truffle dishes, polenta with ragù, aged alpine cheeses, and mushroom-based risottos that echo its earthy undertones. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F); in magnum, the wine will benefit from a generous decant—at least 1–2 hours for current drinking—to let the aromatics blossom and the tannins relax. For long-term cellared bottles, a slightly shorter decant is enough to awaken the wine without over-aerating its more delicate tertiary nuances.

Producer
Nervi-Conterno unites the legacy of Gattinara’s oldest winery with the craftsmanship of one of Barolo’s most respected names. Founded in 1906, Nervi helped define the reputation of Gattinara long before Alto Piemonte’s renaissance, championing Nebbiolo on its volcanic slopes when attention was largely focused further south in the Langhe. In 2018, the estate was acquired by Roberto Conterno of the legendary Giacomo Conterno estate, bringing meticulous vineyard work and an uncompromising, terroir-first philosophy to Nervi’s historic holdings. Today, Nervi-Conterno is a benchmark for Gattinara, with single-vineyard bottlings like Vigna Valferana and Molsino showcasing the region’s capacity for wines of finesse, structure, and remarkable aging potential.

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