Marco De Bartoli Vecchio Samperi Perpetuo

De Bartoli Vecchio Samperi Perpetuo is a fascinating, non‑fortified Sicilian white wine that pays homage to the original, pre-industrial style of Marsala. Made from 100% Grillo and aged in a perpetual (solera-like) system, it offers remarkable depth, complexity, and a truly distinctive character. This cuvée stands out as one of the purest expressions of oxidative Sicilian winemaking, reconnecting modern drinkers with a historic maritime wine tradition.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Vecchio Samperi shows a deep golden to amber hue, with copper glints that immediately hint at long, oxidative aging. The nose is intensely expressive: dried apricots, candied orange peel, toasted almonds, and hazelnuts mingle with notes of chestnut honey, chamomile, sea breeze, and a subtle oxidative nuttiness reminiscent of fine sherry or traditional Marsala. On the palate, it is dry, powerful, and layered, with a striking interplay of saline freshness and umami richness. Flavors of dried fruits, citrus zest, roasted nuts, salted caramel, and a whisper of balsamic herbs are carried by vibrant acidity, giving tension and lift to its generous texture. The finish is very long, savory, and complex, leaving echoes of nuts, citrus peel, and Mediterranean herbs. Thanks to its solera-style aging and oxidative stability, this wine has excellent aging potential in bottle, gaining even more nuance and tertiary character over a decade or more.

Production
Vecchio Samperi is sourced from De Bartoli’s vineyards around Marsala in western Sicily, where Grillo thrives in limestone-rich, sandy soils and a warm, windswept coastal climate. The grapes are harvested by hand to ensure perfect selection and preserve the health of the fruit—crucial for long, oxidative élevage. Fermentation takes place with native yeasts, and the wine is not fortified; instead, it achieves its structure and intensity through natural fermentation and slow aging. It is matured in a perpetuo system (similar to solera), with wine from older vintages blended progressively with younger wines in a cascade of old casks. This traditional method layers vintages and amplifies complexity, while long, minimally interventionist aging in old wood allows controlled oxidation and the development of its signature nutty, savory profile.

Food & Serving
This is an exceptional food wine that shines with richly flavored, umami-driven dishes. Think aged hard cheeses (Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino), blue cheeses, smoked fish, bottarga, tuna or swordfish, terrines, and game bird pâtés, as well as mushroom risottos, caramelized onion tarts, or roasted nuts and tapas-style snacks. It also works beautifully at the end of a meal with mature cheeses instead of dessert. Serve slightly chilled at around 12–14°C (54–57°F) to balance freshness and aromatic intensity. Decanting for 20–30 minutes can help the wine open up, particularly from a freshly opened bottle, revealing more of its layered aromatics.

Producer
Marco De Bartoli is widely recognized as the visionary who helped revive the reputation of Marsala and traditional Sicilian wines in the late 20th century. Working from his family’s historic vineyards in the Marsala area, he challenged industrial practices by returning to low yields, indigenous grapes, and heritage methods such as the perpetuo system. De Bartoli’s work has been instrumental in showing that Marsala and its kin can be profound, terroir-driven wines rather than merely cooking ingredients. Today, the estate is considered one of Sicily’s benchmark producers, celebrated internationally for its authentic, characterful wines and its pioneering role in the renaissance of high-quality, traditional Sicilian winemaking.

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