Grillo wine: the white grape of western Sicily
Grillo is a white grape from Sicily, and most of its vineyards still lie in the province of Trapani, around the town of Marsala. DNA analysis shows that Grillo is a cross of Catarratto and Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria). When the cross happened, and who made it, is still debated. What is clear is that Grillo was planted widely around Marsala and Trapani after phylloxera struck in the early twentieth century, because it was hardier than Catarratto and copes well with heat, wind and dry summers. It later lost ground to higher-yielding varieties, but since the 1990s Grillo has had a real revival as a dry white wine. Many bottles now carry the Sicilia DOC or Terre Siciliane IGT label.
What does Grillo taste like? Citrus, salt and yellow fruit
A young Grillo shows citrus, grapefruit, yellow apple and herbs, often with a salty, almost coastal note on the finish. Some wines lean towards Sauvignon Blanc with passion fruit and elderflower, others are rounder, with honey, almond and ripe pear. The acidity is fresh rather than sharp and the body is medium. The grape's aromas oxidise easily, so many producers work in stainless steel and keep oxygen away, but you will also find oak-aged Grillo, skin-contact Grillo and sparkling Grillo.
The range here shows that spread. Planeta Terebinto and Donnafugata SurSur stand for the bright, fresh style, while Feudo Montoni Grillo della Timpa and Tenute Orestiadi Gibellina Nissim show the mineral side. Cantine Fina makes pure Grillo in its Kebrilla, and Cusumano and Firriato blend the grape with Inzolia, Catarratto and Zibibbo. Orestiadi's Pizzicanti is a lightly sparkling frizzante.
Grillo in Marsala and the wines of Marco De Bartoli
Grillo has always been the key grape in fine Marsala. The golden and amber styles, Oro and Ambra, are made from Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia and Damaschino. Marsala is fortified and aged for a long time in cask: a Superiore for at least two years, a Superiore Riserva for at least four and a Vergine for at least five. You will find Marco De Bartoli's Marsala Superiore Riserva Oro and Florio's Marsala Superiore Riserva Semisecco among the bottles here. For more sweet and fortified wines, see dessert wine.
No one has done more for Grillo than Marco De Bartoli. His Vecchio Samperi is aged by the perpetuo method, a kind of solera, and is not fortified. That keeps it outside the Marsala name, but it shows how the wine of the area tasted before fortification became the rule: dry, nutty and salty.
Food pairing with Grillo: seafood, vegetables and Sicilian cooking
Dry Grillo suits almost anything from the sea: grilled fish, squid, prawns, crudo and sushi. In Trapani it is drunk with fish couscous and pasta con le sarde, and it works just as well with caponata and grilled vegetables. The fuller, oak-aged wines can take chicken and pork. Vecchio Samperi and dry Marsala make a fine aperitif with almonds, olives and aged cheese, while sweet Marsala goes with cannoli and almond biscuits. Explore more wines from the island under Sicily, all of Italy under Italian wine, and every dry white under white wine.
Grillo wine FAQ
Is Grillo wine dry or sweet?
Most Grillo is dry white wine. You meet sweet or off-dry Grillo in Marsala and dessert wines, and the label says so clearly: Secco, Semisecco or Dolce.
Where does the Grillo grape come from?
From Sicily, above all the province of Trapani in the west of the island. Outside Sicily it is grown only on a very small scale.
Is Grillo similar to Sauvignon Blanc?
Some Grillo shares Sauvignon Blanc's citrus and passion fruit, but it is usually softer and rounder, with less green, grassy character and a saltier finish.
How long can you keep Grillo?
Fresh Grillo is best within two to three years. Oak-aged wines last longer, and Marsala and Vecchio Samperi can be kept for decades. An opened bottle of Marsala also keeps well.