Valpolicella Ripasso: the red wine refermented on Amarone skins
Valpolicella Ripasso is a full-bodied red wine from the hills north of Verona, and the Italian word ripasso means "passed over again". The name describes the method. A producer first makes a young Valpolicella. Once the Amarone or Recioto has finished fermenting and been drawn off, the young wine is poured over the leftover skins, which are still rich in sugar, colour and aroma. That starts a second fermentation lasting at least three days, and the wine gains alcohol, body and a touch of the dried fruit character of Amarone. The style sits between a fresh Valpolicella Classico and a powerful Amarone, which is why Ripasso is often called Amarone's younger brother.
Refermenting new wine on Amarone pomace is an old practice in Valpolicella. It became widely known when Masi harvested the first vintage of Campofiorin in 1964. Today Masi makes Campofiorin with partly dried grapes instead, and it is sold as an IGT rather than as Ripasso. Valpolicella Ripasso became a DOC in its own right in 2010.
Grapes, rules and what Ripasso Superiore means
Ripasso is made from the same grapes as Valpolicella and Amarone: 45 to 95 percent Corvina and/or Corvinone, 5 to 30 percent Rondinella, and up to 25 percent other permitted red varieties. A Valpolicella Ripasso needs at least 12.5 percent alcohol and cannot be released before 1 January of the second year after the harvest. When the label says Ripasso Superiore, the minimum rises to 13 percent.
Ripasso Classico comes from the historic heart of the zone, the communes of Fumane, Marano, Negrar, San Pietro in Cariano and Sant'Ambrogio. Valpantena is a valley north of Verona with its own subzone name on the label. If neither appears, the grapes can come from anywhere in the wider Valpolicella area. Expect ripe cherry, plum, raisin and a little spice, with softer tannins than Amarone.
Valpolicella Ripasso producers, from Tommasi and Bertani to Zenato's Ripassa
Many of the great Amarone houses also make Ripasso, which makes sense: the skins come from their own Amarone. Tommasi makes a Ripasso Classico Superiore, and Bertani offers both Catullo from the Classico zone and a Ripasso from Valpantena. Zenato calls its Ripasso Superiore simply Ripassa. Tedeschi is behind Capitel San Rocco, and Domìni Veneti, the cooperative in Negrar, makes La Casetta, Torbae and Pruviniano.
The range also takes in Cesari's Bosan, Pasqua (including Cascina San Vincenzo), Recchia's Le Muraie, Lenotti's Le Crosare, Sartori's Mont'Albano, Lorenzo Begali, Monteforte's Clivus, Vigna 800 and Vigne Venete. Some come in magnum, a good format for a wine with this much structure.
Food pairing with Ripasso
Ripasso has more body than a standard Valpolicella but keeps its fresh acidity, so it is easy to match with food. Try it with lasagne, mushroom risotto, grilled beef, lamb, game stews and mature cheeses such as Grana Padano and Monte Veronese. Serve it at 16 to 18 degrees, ideally after half an hour in a decanter. For a step up in concentration, an Amarone from the same producer is the natural next bottle, and you will find the rest of the region's wines under Veneto.
Valpolicella Ripasso FAQ
What is Ripasso wine?
Ripasso is a Valpolicella that has fermented a second time on the skins left over from Amarone or Recioto. The result is a fuller red with notes of cherry, dried fruit and spice.
What is the difference between Ripasso and Amarone?
Amarone is made from grapes dried for several months before pressing, which makes it more powerful and higher in alcohol. Ripasso only borrows the Amarone skins, so it is lighter and ready to drink sooner.
What does Superiore mean on a Valpolicella Ripasso?
Superiore means the wine has at least 13 percent alcohol, against 12.5 percent for a standard Valpolicella Ripasso.
Which grapes are used in Ripasso?
The main grape is Corvina or Corvinone, blended with Rondinella and sometimes other permitted red varieties from Valpolicella.