Nervi-Conterno Vigna Molsino Gattinara 2020 MG

Nervi-Conterno Vigna Molsino Gattinara 2020 in magnum format is a powerful yet remarkably refined expression of Nebbiolo from the northern reaches of Piedmont. Often described by Roberto Conterno himself as having a Barolo-like character, this single-vineyard Gattinara combines depth, structure and immediate charm in equal measure. The larger 1.5 L bottle promises an even slower, more graceful evolution, making it a superb choice for both collectors and lovers of classic Italian reds.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2020 Vigna Molsino shows a deep, luminous garnet core with ruby highlights, hinting at both concentration and freshness. The nose is layered and complex: dark cherry, blackcurrant and wild berries mingle with notes of rose petals, violet, sweet earth, licorice and warm spices, along with hints of tobacco leaf and iron-rich mineral tones. On the palate, this Gattinara is supple and textural, with that trademark Molsino “softness” expressed as velvety, finely woven tannins rather than hardness or grip. The dark-fruited core is generous and mouthfilling, supported by lively acidity and a long, savory finish that carries notes of dried herbs, forest floor and subtle oak spice. While already surprisingly approachable in its youth thanks to Gattinara’s slightly warmer mesoclimate, this is a structured Nebbiolo that will reward patience. In magnum, expect a broad drinking window and peak enjoyment over 12–20+ years from vintage, depending on your preference for primary fruit vs. developed tertiary complexity.

Production
Vigna Molsino is a historic amphitheater-shaped vineyard in Gattinara, set on steep, well-drained slopes of ancient volcanic and porphyry-rich soils in northern Piedmont. This cool yet sunny terroir, with constant air circulation and significant diurnal range, allows Nebbiolo to ripen fully while preserving tension, aromatics and minerality. Grapes are typically harvested by hand at optimal ripeness, with rigorous selection both in the vineyard and at the winery to ensure only the finest clusters are used for this single-vineyard bottling. Vinification follows a traditional, low-intervention philosophy: gentle crushing, extended maceration on the skins to extract fine tannins and aromatic complexity, and fermentation in temperature-controlled conditions. The wine is then aged in large neutral botti (traditional large oak casks) and/or carefully chosen oak, allowing the Nebbiolo character and the Molsino terroir to take center stage without heavy oak imprint, before being bottled—here in magnum—for extended development.

Food & Serving
This is a noble, structured red that shines alongside robust, savory dishes. Think braised veal shank (ossobuco), slow-cooked lamb, beef short ribs, game birds, truffle risotto, porcini-based pasta, and aged hard cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano or mature Taleggio. It also complements rich polenta with wild mushroom ragù and classic Piedmontese dishes like brasato al Barolo or tajarin with butter and sage. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F) to emphasize both aromatics and finesse. For current drinking, decant 1.5–2 hours to allow the wine to unfurl its layered bouquet; in more mature bottles, a gentle 30–60 minute decant is sufficient, mainly to separate any sediment and let the aromatics fully blossom.

Producer
Nervi-Conterno is the union of the historic Gattinara estate Nervi—founded in 1906 and regarded as one of the appellation’s benchmarks—with the vision and expertise of Roberto Conterno, the legendary Barolo producer behind Giacomo Conterno. Since Roberto acquired Nervi, the estate has become a reference point for high-class Nebbiolo from Alto Piemonte, bringing renewed global attention to Gattinara’s unique volcanic terroir. With a focus on meticulous vineyard work, low yields and traditional yet precise winemaking, Nervi-Conterno crafts wines of remarkable purity, structure and longevity. Vigna Molsino, along with Vigna Valferana, stands at the top of their range and is widely recognized by critics and collectors as one of the most important single-vineyard Gattinaras produced today.

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