Fabrice Chaillou La Dévergondée Pet Nat 2020 Magnum white

Fabrice Chaillou La Dévergondée Pét Nat 2020 in magnum format is a wonderfully irreverent take on Chenin Blanc from the Loire, crafted in the ancestral “pétillant naturel” style. Bright, energetic and unapologetically festive, it’s made for sharing and for those moments when you want bubbles with personality, not polish. The label, featuring two carefree ladies, nods to the shameless excess and joie de vivre of the roaring 1920s—hence the name “La Dévergondée,” meaning “shameless.”

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this Pét Nat typically shows a pale straw to light golden hue, often slightly hazy from its natural bottle fermentation, capped by a lively mousse. On the nose, expect a playful mix of orchard fruit—crisp apple and pear—alongside notes of quince, citrus zest, and a subtle floral lift, with hints of brioche dough, crushed chalk and a gentle yeasty or cidery edge that speaks to its natural, unfiltered character. The palate is bright and refreshing, driven by Chenin Blanc’s hallmark acidity. Juicy green apple, pear and lemon peel intertwine with a touch of white peach and a faint, savory minerality. The bubbles are frothy and energetic rather than ultra-fine, giving it a relaxed, glou-glou charm. Dry to off-dry in impression (depending on residual sugar in the bottle), it finishes clean, slightly saline, and mouthwatering, encouraging another glass. Best enjoyed in its youth for maximum vibrancy and fruit purity, it can nonetheless evolve over a couple of years into something a little more textured and autolytic, with more pronounced brioche and honeyed notes.

Production
La Dévergondée is made from Chenin Blanc grown in the Loire, a region known for its cool climate, limestone- and clay-rich soils and excellent conditions for high-acid, characterful whites. Grapes are typically harvested by hand to preserve whole berries and ensure only healthy fruit is selected for such a minimally intervened style. The wine is produced using the ancestral méthode (Pétillant Naturel), in which the juice begins its primary fermentation in tank and is then bottled before fermentation finishes, trapping the natural CO₂ in the bottle to create gentle, lively bubbles. There is no second fermentation with added sugar; the wine may be lightly disgorged or left on its lees for a slightly cloudy, textural profile, in keeping with its natural, unadorned spirit.

Food & Serving
This exuberant Pét Nat is a versatile food companion and a superb aperitif. Pair it with oysters, shellfish, sushi, ceviche and other raw or simply prepared seafood, or serve alongside goat cheese (a Loire classic), soft-ripened cheeses, charcuterie and salty snacks. It also shines with fried dishes, tempura, light salads, vegetable tartes and casual tapas-style spreads. Serve well-chilled at around 6–8°C (43–46°F) to emphasize freshness and vibrancy. A brief, gentle opening 10–15 minutes before serving is usually sufficient; full decanting is not necessary, though you may wish to pour slowly and leave the last cloudy centimeter in the bottle if you prefer a clearer glass.

Producer
Fabrice Chaillou is an independent Loire Valley grower and winemaker with a focus on expressive, terroir-driven wines that highlight the natural vibrancy of local varieties like Chenin Blanc. Working on a scale that allows close attention to detail in the vineyard and cellar, the estate leans into the region’s long heritage of sparkling and still wines while embracing contemporary tastes for more unadorned, characterful bottlings. La Dévergondée Pét Nat reflects this ethos: rooted in tradition through the ancestral method, yet modern in its playful, free-spirited approach to packaging and style, it has helped bring the approachable, festive side of Loire Chenin to a wider audience.

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