Comando G Villanueva 2023

Comando G’s Villanueva 2023 is a captivating, high-altitude Garnacha from the granitic slopes of Villanueva de Ávila in the Vinos de Madrid appellation. Intensely aromatic, floral and shimmering with minerality, it marries Burgundian finesse with the wild energy of Sierra de Gredos. Produced in tiny quantities, this cuvée has quickly become a reference point for elegant, terroir-driven Spanish reds.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Villanueva 2023 shows a luminous, translucent ruby hue, more reminiscent of a fine Pinot Noir than a typical Mediterranean red. The nose is strikingly delicate and perfumed: rose petals and hibiscus mingle with wild strawberry, watermelon, rosehip and a cool, stony minerality that recalls wet granite and mountain air. On the palate, it is weightless yet intense, with ultra-fine tannins and a spine of vibrant acidity that gives the wine both lift and precision. Red berries, pomegranate and cranberry layer over subtle herbal and tea-leaf nuances, finishing with a long, saline, mineral echo. There’s an almost ethereal quality here—elegant, pure and persistent—suggesting a wine that will drink beautifully in its youth but also has the structure to evolve gracefully over the next 6–8 years, gaining complexity and savory depth.

Production
Villanueva 2023 comes from old-vine Garnacha planted on poor, sandy soils over decomposed granite at high altitude in the Sierra de Gredos, within the Vinos de Madrid region. This rugged mountain terroir, with its cool nights and intense sun, yields grapes of remarkable aromatic lift and natural freshness. Fruit is typically hand-harvested in small crates to preserve berry integrity, then vinified with a light touch to capture finesse rather than power. Comando G works organically and with minimal intervention; fermentations are generally spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, often including a high proportion of whole clusters to enhance fragrance and texture. No sulfur is used during vinification or élevage, and only a modest dose is added at bottling. Aging is carried out in neutral vessels—such as large old barrels or foudres—to respect the delicacy of the fruit and the strong mineral imprint of the granite soils. Just 3,972 bottles were filled in August 2024.

Food & Serving
This style of Garnacha, with its lift and elegance, is wonderfully versatile at the table. Pair it with roast chicken, grilled quail, duck breast with cherries, or herb-crusted lamb for a classic match, or try it alongside charcuterie, Iberico ham, mushroom dishes, or lightly spiced Middle Eastern plates. It is also excellent with semi-soft cheeses such as Comté, Tomme or Manchego Curado. Serve slightly chilled, around 14–16°C (57–61°F), to highlight its floral and mineral character. Decanting for 30–45 minutes can help the wine open up its aromatics, especially in the first few years after release.

Producer
Comando G was founded by friends Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi and Fernando García, who set out to reveal the true potential of old-vine Garnacha in the rugged Sierra de Gredos mountains west of Madrid. Working with high-altitude, low-yielding vineyards on decomposed granite, they craft wines that have redefined expectations for Vinos de Madrid—favoring elegance, tension and transparency over heaviness and oak. Their meticulous organic farming, low-intervention cellar work and focus on single-village and single-parcel bottlings have earned them a reputation as one of Spain’s most exciting and influential producers, often drawing comparisons to top growers in Burgundy and the Northern Rhône for their precision and sense of place.

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