Comando G Las Umbrias 2022

Comando G Las Umbrías 2022 is one of Spain’s most sought‑after expressions of high-altitude Garnacha, crafted from rugged old vines in the granite hills of the Sierra de Gredos near Madrid. This is a red wine that marries mountain freshness with fine, almost Burgundian finesse, offering a remarkably elegant take on Garnacha. Limited in production and highly allocated, it has become a benchmark for cool-climate, terroir-driven Spanish reds.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Las Umbrías 2022 shows a luminous, translucent ruby hue with a delicate rim, hinting at its finesse and minimal extraction. The nose is pure and lifted, offering wild red berries, crushed raspberry and alpine strawberry layered with rose petals, blood orange zest, fine herbs, and subtle notes of white pepper, wet stone and thyme. On the palate, it’s light to medium-bodied yet intensely flavoured, with a silken texture and precise, mineral-driven spine. Red cherry, pomegranate and wild strawberry are framed by savory undertones of dried herbs, tea leaf and a faint hint of smoke from the granite soils, all carried by bright, mouthwatering acidity and ultra-fine tannins. The finish is long, saline and energetic, leaving a lingering impression of red fruit and crushed rock. While already approachable in its youth with a short decant, the 2022 has the structure and balance to evolve beautifully over 8–12 years, gaining complexity and tertiary nuances.

Production
Las Umbrías comes from steep, high-altitude parcels of old-vine Garnacha planted on decomposed granite and sandy soils in the Sierra de Gredos, within the Vinos de Madrid appellation. The cool mountain climate, strong diurnal shifts and poor, well-drained soils contribute to low yields and grapes of exceptional aromatic intensity. Harvest is done entirely by hand, usually in small crates, with meticulous selection of bunches in the vineyard and at the winery to preserve only perfectly ripe fruit. Comando G follows a minimal-intervention philosophy: whole or mostly whole clusters are gently fermented with indigenous yeasts in open vats or large neutral vessels, with delicate extraction through infusions rather than heavy punch-downs. Aging typically takes place in large, old oak foudres or neutral barrels to preserve purity of fruit and terroir expression, with minimal sulfur and no unnecessary fining or filtration before bottling.

Food & Serving
This refined Garnacha pairs beautifully with elegant, flavourful dishes rather than heavy, overly rich fare. Think roasted or grilled poultry (especially duck or guinea fowl), herb-crusted lamb, charcuterie, mushroom-based dishes, and Mediterranean plates with roasted vegetables, tomato, and aromatic herbs. It also sings alongside lightly chilled tapas, such as jamón ibérico, morcilla or grilled octopus. Serve at a slightly cool cellar temperature, around 14–16°C, to highlight its freshness and aromatics. A gentle decant of 30–60 minutes helps the wine open and soften its youthful structure; for older bottles, decant more carefully and briefly to avoid over-aeration.

Producer
Comando G was founded in 2008 by two visionary winemakers, Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi and Fernando García, who set out to rediscover and elevate the old-vine Garnacha vineyards of the Sierra de Gredos in central Spain. Working with tiny, remote parcels at high altitude, they champion organic and biodynamic viticulture, minimal intervention in the cellar and a clear focus on terroir transparency. Their wines, often compared to top Burgundy for their finesse and sense of place, have helped redefine Vinos de Madrid and put Gredos firmly on the world map for fine wine. Las Umbrías is one of their flagship single-vineyard bottlings, consistently praised by international critics and collectors for its precision, purity and aging potential.

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