Bernard Defaix, Chablis 1. Cru Cote de Lechet Reserve, 2023

Bernard Defaix’s Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2023 is a finely judged expression of Chardonnay from one of Chablis’ most characterful sites. Drawn from the family’s oldest parcel, planted in 1955, it combines power, precision, and a distinct mineral edge that reflects both the vineyard’s stony soils and its prime exposure on the slopes above the Serein.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this wine shows the classic pale gold sheen of Chablis with impressive depth and concentration. The nose opens with ripe tropical fruit, layered with white flowers and a subtle flinty, oyster-shell character that gives immediate lift and complexity. On the palate, it is broad and mouth-filling without feeling heavy, thanks to vibrant acidity and a saline, sea-spray mineral streak that keeps the fruit in check. The texture is rich and layered, with old-vine intensity and a long, persistent finish. This is a Chablis 1er Cru with strong ageing potential, likely to gain further nuance over the next 5 to 10 years, and possibly longer in a good cellar.

Production
Côte de Lechet sits on the right bank of the Serein near Milly, where the Defaix family farms 8 hectares and benefits from excellent southern exposure. The Reserve comes from the oldest parcel, planted in 1955, on extremely stony soils that drain well and force the vines to root deeply in search of water, helping build both concentration and aromatic complexity. Half of the must is matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, adding subtle structure and polish without masking the vineyard’s signature minerality.

Food & Serving
This wine pairs beautifully with shellfish, oysters, grilled fish, scallops, creamy poultry dishes, and fine white meats. Serve it at around 10–12°C to highlight both its freshness and texture, and consider a short decant if opening it young to help the aromas unfold.

Producer
Bernard Defaix is a respected Chablis producer with deep family roots in the region and a strong reputation for site-driven wines that express the purity of Chardonnay in cool-climate Burgundy. The family is especially notable for its holdings in Côte de Lechet, where its large presence on the slope has helped establish the vineyard’s standing as one of Chablis’ most promising Premier Cru sites.

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