Dolcetto wine is what Piedmont's growers open on an ordinary weeknight: deep purple in the glass, juicy with black cherry and plum, finished by a faint bitter-almond note and soft, rounded tannins. The name translates as "little sweet one", yet the wine is fully dry. The sweetness most likely refers to the grape's low acidity, which makes it smooth and easy to enjoy young, where Barbera is bright and tangy and Nebbiolo is firm and tannic.
Dolcetto from Piedmont: the grape that ripens first
Dolcetto ripens early, usually a couple of weeks ahead of Barbera and well before Nebbiolo. That lets growers plant it on cooler, higher slopes where Nebbiolo struggles to ripen, keeping the warmest south-facing sites for Barolo and Barbaresco. The grape is rich in colour and has noticeable but gentle tannins, and with its low acidity most Dolcetto is made to be drunk within a few years, while the fruit is fresh and vivid. Classic examples are aged in stainless steel or large old casks so that fruit stays at the front.
Almost all plantings are in Piedmont, above all around Alba, Dogliani, Diano d'Alba and Ovada. Across the border in Liguria the same grape is called Ormeasco and grows in the hills around Pornassio.
Dolcetto d'Alba, Dogliani and the other Dolcetto zones
Dolcetto is nearly always labelled by where it grows, and each zone has its own accent.
Dolcetto d'Alba
The best known name covers vineyards in the Langhe and Roero hills around Alba, often in the same villages as Barolo and Barbaresco. Many famous Barolo houses make one, and it is a good way to taste a house style without waiting a decade. Look for Elio Grasso's dei Grassi, Elio Altare, Roberto Voerzio's Priavino, Cavallotto's Vigna Scot, Sottimano's Bric del Salto, Chiara Boschis at E. Pira & Figli, Fratelli Alessandria, Oddero, Roagna, Poderi Marcarini's Fontanazza and Castello di Neive. Some producers use the broader Langhe Dolcetto name instead, as Teo Costa does for Trifulot.
Dogliani
Dogliani DOCG, in the southern Langhe, is devoted to Dolcetto alone, and many bottles simply say "Dogliani" on the label. The wines tend to be a little fuller and more structured than Dolcetto d'Alba, and the Superiore versions can develop for several years. Luigi Einaudi's Dogliani is a fine place to start.
Diano d'Alba and Ovada
Diano d'Alba is a small DOCG around a single village, where the best vineyard sites are known as sorì. Ovada, in the province of Alessandria, is known for more powerful Dolcetto with good ageing potential. Dolcetto also turns up as a blending partner, alongside Barbera and Nebbiolo, in Langhe Rosso and Monferrato Rosso reds.
Food pairing: a red for the whole table
Low acidity and soft tannins make Dolcetto an easy food wine. In Piedmont it goes with antipasti, vitello tonnato, salami and cured ham, with tajarin pasta in butter or a meat ragù, and with mushroom risotto. It is just as good with pizza, lasagne, roast chicken and soft cheeses. Serve it lightly cool, around 15 to 16 degrees, so the fruit stays crisp.
Frequently asked questions about Dolcetto wine
Is Dolcetto a sweet wine?
No. Although the name means "little sweet one", Dolcetto is a dry red wine. The name most likely refers to its low acidity, which makes the wine feel soft and round.
What is the difference between Dolcetto and Barbera?
The two grapes are near opposites. Dolcetto has low acidity and noticeable, soft tannins, while Barbera has high acidity and light tannins. Dolcetto also ripens earlier.
What is Dolcetto d'Alba?
Dolcetto d'Alba is a DOC for red wine made from Dolcetto in the area around Alba, in the Langhe and Roero. It is the most widely seen Dolcetto name.
Can you age Dolcetto?
Most Dolcetto is best within its first few years. Dogliani Superiore, Diano d'Alba Superiore and Ovada can, however, develop well for several years.