Montalcino sits on its own hilltop in southern Tuscany, drier and warmer than the region's centre thanks to hills that block Atlantic rain, and its Sangiovese reaches full ripeness here in a way that eluded growers further north for a century. Ferruccio Biondi-Santi is usually credited with isolating the big-berried clones locals still call Sangiovese Grosso and building the first Brunello in the late 1800s. The rules that followed are strict: 100 percent Sangiovese, minimum two years in oak, four months in bottle, and no release before the fifth year after harvest.
One grape, two styles
Traditionalists age Brunello in large old Slavonian oak botti that barely touch the wine's colour or tannin, leaving Sangiovese's cherry, dried herb, and leather character to speak plainly. Modernists, Casanova di Neri among the most recognised, use smaller French barriques for a rounder, more polished texture. Both camps make serious wine; the difference is oak regime, not quality. Soils shift across the zone too, from galestro schist in the cooler north to richer clay and sand near Sant'Angelo in the warmer south, giving Brunello more stylistic range than its single-grape rule suggests.
Where to start
A straight Brunello needs five years minimum before it reaches shelves and rewards five more in the cellar; Riserva goes further still. If that patience doesn't suit the occasion, Rosso di Montalcino is the same vineyards' younger, one-year-aged wine, built for drinking now rather than laying down. For Sangiovese from further north, Chianti shows the same grape in a cooler, earlier-drinking register.
FAQ
Is Brunello always 100 percent Sangiovese?
Yes, by law. No other grape is permitted, which is unusual even by Tuscan standards.
How long should I age it?
Ten years from vintage is a sensible minimum for serious examples; top bottlings keep improving for twenty or more. Riserva bottlings need even longer.
What is Rosso di Montalcino?
The same appellation's junior wine: Sangiovese from the same vineyards, released after just one year, made for earlier drinking at a lower price.