Savagnin is the white grape of the Jura, the source of Vin Jaune and some of France's most distinctive white wines. It makes everything from fresh, topped-up whites to nutty wines aged under a veil of yeast.
What is Savagnin? The Jura's signature white grape
Savagnin is an ancient grape of the Traminer family, long established in the Jura in eastern France. It ripens late, keeps high acidity and has a firm, saline structure, which is why it can survive years in barrel and decades in bottle. In Switzerland's Valais the same grape is known as Heida or Païen. Savagnin is not the same as Gewürztraminer: the aromatic, pink-skinned Gewürztraminer is a mutation within the same family, but the two are sold and made as different wines, and Savagnin is far less perfumed.
In the Jura, Savagnin is grown on marl and limestone slopes in appellations such as Arbois, Côtes du Jura, L'Étoile and Château-Chalon. The way it is made matters as much as where it grows, and the label usually tells you which path the winemaker took.
Ouillé or sous voile: two styles of Savagnin wine
Savagnin ouillé
Ouillé means topped up. The barrels are kept full, so no air touches the wine and the grape's own fruit stays in front: lemon, green apple, white flowers and a salty, stony finish. Domaine Rolet's Arbois Blanc Savagnin Ouillé, Domaine Jean-Luc Mouillard's Le Curieux and Valentin Morel's En Bois d'Arnaux from Les Pieds sur Terre show how precise and energetic this style can be. Domaine Tissot's Arbois Savagnin Amphore, Nicolas Jacob's Les Chazaux and Domaine Sainte Marie's Duo de Savagnin are further examples.
Savagnin sous voile
Sous voile means under the veil. The barrels are not topped up, and a film of yeast forms on the surface of the wine. It protects the wine from too much oxygen while giving it the famous Jura notes of walnut, curry spice, dried apple and bouillon. Domaine Tissot's Arbois Savagnin Sous Voile and the Domaine Villet Orange sous voile are good introductions. Producers such as Domaine Pignier, Tony Bornard and Domaine Ratte make Savagnin in their own personal styles, while Valentin Morel's En Boutasse and Domaine Villet's In-Fusion are skin-contact versions.
Vin Jaune and Château-Chalon
Vin Jaune is the Jura's most famous wine and is made only from Savagnin. It must age at least six years and three months from harvest, at least 60 months of it in barrel under the veil without topping up. Around a third of the wine evaporates, which is the traditional explanation for the special 62 cl bottle, the clavelin. Château-Chalon is the appellation dedicated solely to Vin Jaune. Look for Domaine Jean-Luc Mouillard's Château-Chalon Vin Jaune 2018, Domaine de la Renardière Vin Jaune 2018 and Domaine Rolet's Arbois Vin Jaune 2018.
Savagnin blends and Vin de Paille
Savagnin is also blended with Chardonnay, as in Domaine Sainte Marie's Ensemblage, Mouillard's L'Étoile Chardonnay/Savagnin and Domaine Rolet's Expression du Terroir, and appears in Vin de Paille, a sweet wine from grapes dried after harvest, from Rolet and Mouillard.
Food pairing with Savagnin
Savagnin ouillé is lovely with trout, scallops and white meat in cream. Sous voile wines and Vin Jaune are classic with aged Comté, poulet de Bresse with morels and Vin Jaune sauce, mushrooms, walnuts and even mild curry. Explore the region in Jura wine, try the region's other white grape in Chardonnay, compare with the aromatic Gewürztraminer, or discover skin-contact whites in orange wine.
FAQ about Savagnin
Is Savagnin the same as Gewürztraminer?
They are related, but not the same. Gewürztraminer is a highly aromatic mutation of the family, while Savagnin is drier in style and much more restrained.
What does Vin Jaune taste like?
Dry and intense, with walnut, curry spice, dried apple, honey and a long, salty finish.
Why is Vin Jaune sold in 62 cl bottles?
The clavelin is said to hold what is left of a litre of wine after the long ageing under the veil, when part of the wine has evaporated.
How long can Savagnin age?
Ouillé wines drink well for five to ten years. Vin Jaune and Château-Chalon can age for many decades.