Montepulciano d'Abruzzo: the classic red of Abruzzo
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is the red wine of Abruzzo, the region between the Apennines and the Adriatic in central Italy. The appellation became a DOC in 1968 and covers all four provinces: Chieti, Pescara, Teramo and L'Aquila, with Chieti making the largest share. The name causes endless confusion. The wine has nothing to do with the Tuscan town of Montepulciano, where Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Rosso di Montepulciano are made from Sangiovese. Here Montepulciano is the name of the grape, and "d'Abruzzo" tells you where it grows.
The grape, the rules and the style in the glass
The rules require at least 85 per cent Montepulciano, with Sangiovese allowed for the rest. The wine must age at least five months before release, and a Riserva at least two years, including at least nine months in wooden barrels. The grape gives deep, almost violet colour, dark cherry, plum and spice. Tannins are usually soft and acidity moderate, so a young Montepulciano d'Abruzzo drinks well soon after bottling, while a Riserva from a good vintage can develop for many years.
The rosé from the same grape used to be labelled Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Cerasuolo, but in 2010 it became a DOC of its own, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo. It is therefore not part of this page, which brings together the appellation's red wine.
Colline Teramane, the subzones and the producers to know
In the hills around Teramo in the north lies Colline Teramane, which gained its own DOC in 1995 and was promoted to DOCG in 2003. It requires at least 90 per cent Montepulciano. Within the main DOC there are also five subzones with stricter rules: Alto Tirino, Casauria, Teate, Terre dei Peligni and Terre dei Vestini.
Emidio Pepe in Torano Nuovo, near Teramo, has done more than anyone for the wine's reputation. The estate ferments and ages in glass-lined concrete tanks without fining or filtration, and still releases older vintages from its cellar. Alongside it you will find Torre dei Beati with Cocciapazza and Mazzamurello, Masciarelli, La Valentina, Tenuta Ulisse with Amaranta, Marramiero, Fantini and Fontefico.
What to eat with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Juicy fruit and soft tannins make this an easy wine at the table. It suits pasta with meat ragù, pizza, lasagne, grilled sausages and lamb skewers, and aged hard cheeses such as pecorino. A Riserva with a few years in bottle can take roast lamb, game and slow-braised beef. Serve it at around 16 to 18 degrees, a little cooler when the wine is young.
Frequently asked questions about Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Is Montepulciano d'Abruzzo the same as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano?
No. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is made from the Montepulciano grape in Abruzzo. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano comes from the town of Montepulciano in Tuscany and is made mainly from Sangiovese.
What does Riserva mean on a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo?
That the wine has been aged for at least two years before release, including at least nine months in wood. Riserva wines are usually more concentrated and keep longer.
What is the difference between the DOC and Colline Teramane DOCG?
Colline Teramane is a smaller area in the province of Teramo with stricter rules, including at least 90 per cent Montepulciano against 85 per cent in the main DOC.
How long can you keep Montepulciano d'Abruzzo?
Most bottles are made to be enjoyed within a few years. Riserva wines and bottles from estates such as Emidio Pepe and Torre dei Beati can, by contrast, develop for many years.