Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Selezione VV Bio 1983

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Selezione VV Bio 1983 is a rare glimpse into just how gracefully Montepulciano can age when handled by a master. Drawn from very old vines (“VV” – Vigne Vecchie) and farmed organically long before it was fashionable, this bottle showcases the full maturity and complexity of a legendary warm vintage. Today, it offers an extraordinary harmony of tertiary nuances, vibrant acidity, and fully resolved tannins that underline its status as one of Abruzzo’s great, ageworthy reds.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the wine shows a deep garnet core shading to brick and tawny hues at the rim, a classic sign of its long evolution. The nose is captivating and layered: aromas of dried rose petals, black cherry and Morello cherry mingle with hints of tobacco leaf, leather, dried herbs, and a gentle earthiness, supported by subtle notes of spice and underbrush. On the palate, the 1983 Selezione VV is remarkably alive, with a still-vibrant, almost pulsating acidity that keeps the wine fresh and energetic despite its age. Dark cherry and black plum flavors are interwoven with dried fig, tea leaf, balsamic nuances, and a savory, mineral edge. The tannins, once powerful and structured, are now fine-grained and silky, giving a long, persistent finish of dried flowers, licorice and sweet spices. At this stage, the wine is in a beautiful drinking window, with enough structure and acidity to hold for a few more years for those who enjoy fully mature profiles, but it is unquestionably at or near its peak expression now.

Production
The fruit for Emidio Pepe’s Selezione VV Bio comes from some of the estate’s oldest Montepulciano vines in Torano Nuovo, in the northern hills of Abruzzo, where clay-limestone soils and Adriatic breezes combine to give natural concentration and freshness. Farmed according to organic and biodynamic principles, the vineyards are worked by hand, with low yields and strict selection ensuring only the healthiest grapes make it to the cellar. Harvested manually at optimal ripeness, the bunches are traditionally hand-destemmed and the grapes gently crushed by foot, then fermented in concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, without temperature control or technological intervention. Aging takes place in concrete rather than new wood to preserve the pure character of Montepulciano, followed by exceptionally long bottle aging in the Pepe cellars—especially in a dense, warm year like 1983—before any release, allowing the wine to evolve slowly and harmoniously.

Food & Serving
This mature Montepulciano d’Abruzzo shines alongside richly flavored yet nuanced dishes that respect its age and complexity: braised lamb shank, slow-cooked beef cheeks, ossobuco, or game birds with truffle and wild mushrooms are all excellent partners. Aged hard cheeses such as Pecorino di Abruzzo, Parmigiano Reggiano or well-matured Asiago also make a superb match, as do rustic lentil or bean stews finished with good olive oil. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F), and given the wine’s age, decant very gently 30–45 minutes before serving—or use a slow-oxidation approach by opening the bottle and pouring carefully to leave sediment in the bottle. Avoid overly aggressive aeration to preserve the delicate tertiary aromatics that have developed over four decades.

Producer
Founded in 1964, the Emidio Pepe estate in Torano Nuovo has become one of Italy’s most revered traditional producers, particularly renowned for its long-lived Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Emidio Pepe was a pioneer in Abruzzo, championing low-intervention, organic farming and artisanal cellar practices at a time when the region was better known for volume than for quality. His insistence on old vines, handwork, concrete fermentation, and extended bottle aging helped redefine what Abruzzo wines could be, proving that Montepulciano can rival the aging potential of the world’s great reds. Today, under the guidance of the next generation, the estate continues to uphold these principles and is considered a benchmark not only for the region but for traditional, terroir-driven Italian wine at large.

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