Nerello Mascalese: the elegant red grape of Mount Etna
Nerello Mascalese is a red grape from north-eastern Sicily. It takes its name from Mascali, the plain on the eastern side of Etna where it most likely originated. DNA analysis points to Sangiovese and the Calabrian Mantonico Bianco as its parents, which makes Gaglioppo from Cirò a full sibling. The grape is recorded on Etna as early as 1839, and today it is the backbone of both Etna wine and the tiny Faro appellation near Messina.
It ripens late. Harvest usually falls in October and can run to the end of the month in the highest vineyards. That long season gives wines with high acidity, firm but fine tannins and a colour that is often paler than the flavour suggests. This is why Nerello Mascalese is so often compared with Nebbiolo, for the tension between acid and tannin, and with Pinot Noir, for the way it shows the differences between individual sites.
What Nerello Mascalese red wine tastes like
Expect red berries, cherries and dried flowers, often with spice, liquorice and a smoky, mineral edge. The body is medium, the acidity keeps the wine fresh and the tannins give it shape, so the best bottles age for many years. A smaller share of Nerello Cappuccio is often added for colour and softer fruit, and this page holds both single-variety wines and the classic blends.
Styles vary a lot. Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Girolamo Russo and Graci make precise contrada wines from sites such as Calderara Sottana, San Lorenzo and Feudo di Mezzo. Frank Cornelissen works without any oak and keeps his wines raw and alive, while Pietradolce and Tenuta Tascante show the grape from old bush vines at altitude. Benanti, Cottanera, Alta Mora and Palmento Costanzo stand for a more classic, balanced Etna Rosso.
Etna Rosso, Faro and the rest of Sicily
An Etna Rosso must contain at least 80 percent Nerello Mascalese, with Nerello Cappuccio allowed for the rest. The same minimum applies to Etna Rosato. Most vineyards sit between 300 and 900 metres on volcanic soils, and many old vines are trained as alberello, free-standing bushes, some of them planted before phylloxera.
Faro DOC near Messina is one of the smallest appellations in Italy. Here Nerello Mascalese makes up between 45 and 60 percent of the blend, alongside Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera. Palari brought Faro back to life, and their Faro Palari and Rosso del Soprano are fine examples of the grape away from Etna. It is also grown elsewhere in Sicily, for example by Cortese.
Rosato, blanc de noirs and sparkling Nerello
Pale colour and bright acidity make Nerello Mascalese a natural for rosé wine. Etna Rosato from Terre Nere, Graci, Girolamo Russo and Tenuta di Fessina is dry, saline and fresh, and Terrazze dell'Etna makes one too. Orestiadi uses the grape for its sparkling La Gelsomina, both as a blanc de noirs and as a rosé.
Food pairing with Nerello Mascalese
The acidity and moderate body make the grape very flexible at the table. Serve a young Etna Rosso lightly chilled with grilled tuna, mushrooms, tomato pasta or duck. Aged contrada wines suit lamb, veal and mature cheese, while a rosato works well with fish soup, shellfish and vegetable dishes with olives and capers. If you enjoy Sicilian grapes, Nero d'Avola is the darker, sun-ripened counterpart.
Nerello Mascalese FAQ
What kind of grape is Nerello Mascalese?
A red grape from Sicily, named after Mascali at the foot of Etna. It makes pale, fresh and structured red wines with red fruit and a mineral note, and it is the main grape in Etna Rosso and Faro.
What is the difference between Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio?
They are two different grapes. Nerello Mascalese brings acidity, tannin and finesse, while Nerello Cappuccio, also called Nerello Mantellato, adds colour and softer fruit. In Etna Rosso, Cappuccio may make up no more than 20 percent.
Can you age Nerello Mascalese?
Yes. The best Etna Rosso and contrada wines develop over many years, while rosato and simpler reds are best within a few years.