Rita & Rudolf Trossen Madonna Purus Riesling trocken Bio 2022 white

Rita & Rudolf Trossen’s Madonna Purus Riesling trocken 2022 is a striking example of uncompromising Mosel natural wine, bottled entirely without added sulfur. From old, ungrafted vines on one of the Mosel’s classic steep slate slopes, this dry Riesling captures both the purity of the grape and the raw expression of its unique terroir. The "Purus" line represents the estate’s most unadorned, minimal‑intervention wines, offering a vivid, unfiltered glimpse into the Mosel’s biodynamic avant‑garde.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Madonna Purus typically shows a pale lemon to light straw color with a slight natural haze, underscoring its unfiltered, low‑intervention character. The nose is intense and layered: ripe lime, green apple and white peach meet wild herbal notes, crushed slate, and a faint hint of blossom and yeast. As it opens, subtle nuances of citrus zest, wet stone and a touch of spontaneous‑fermentation funk add complexity without overshadowing the fruit. On the palate, this is a dry, textured Riesling with vibrant, pulsing acidity that feels very classic Mosel, yet the structure and mouthfeel are distinctly natural wine: tactile, spicy and alive. Citrus and stone fruit are wrapped in a savory, mineral core, with notes of grapefruit pith, salty slate, herbs and a gentle phenolic grip on the finish. The long, evolving aftertaste suggests good aging potential; while already engaging in its youth, this wine will gain further complexity and harmony over the next 5–8 years, developing more honeyed, smoky and earthy nuances with time in bottle.

Production
This Riesling comes from the heart of the steep, south‑facing Kinheimer Hubertuslay, though the single vineyard name is not allowed on the label for wines that sit well outside conventional norms. Here, old, still ungrafted Riesling vines sink their roots deep into weathered slate soils, yielding low but highly concentrated fruit. The vineyard has been farmed biodynamically for decades, with great emphasis on soil vitality, biodiversity and manual care of the vines. Harvest is done exclusively by hand, with strict selection of only perfectly healthy grapes—essential for a wine made without any added sulfur or corrective interventions. Fermentation takes place spontaneously with native yeasts and unfolds slowly, over many months, allowing the wine to find its own balance. The Purus line is bottled with minimal handling, typically unfiltered and with no sulfur additions, preserving the wine’s full, unpolished character.

Food & Serving
Madonna Purus Riesling trocken is a superb match for subtly aromatic and textural dishes: think ceviche or crudo with citrus and herbs, sushi and sashimi, lightly spiced Asian cuisine, or freshwater fish with fennel and lemon. It also works beautifully with goat’s cheese, aged mountain cheeses, seasonal vegetable dishes (especially asparagus, fennel, or kohlrabi), and simple roast chicken with herbs. Serve at around 9–11°C to highlight its freshness and precision. A short decant of 20–30 minutes, or simply opening the bottle in advance and giving it some air in the glass, helps the natural aromatics unfold and brings the wine into clear focus.

Producer
Weingut Rita & Rudolf Trossen is one of the pioneers of biodynamic and natural wine in the Mosel, long before such practices became fashionable. Based in Kinheim, the estate has quietly built a reputation among insiders for soulful, uncompromising Rieslings that are deeply rooted in their slate terroirs. Working almost entirely by hand on steep slopes and following biodynamic principles since the 1970s–80s, the Trossens were among the first in the region to explore zero‑sulfur bottlings and extended spontaneous fermentations. Their Purus line, including Madonna, has become a reference point for serious, ageworthy natural Riesling from Germany, and a key voice in the Mosel’s modern, artisanal movement.

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