Nervi-Conterno Vigna Molsino Gattinara 2018

Nervi-Conterno Vigna Molsino Gattinara 2018 is a powerful, single-vineyard Nebbiolo from the dramatic hills of Alto Piemonte, crafted under the guidance of Roberto Conterno. Sourced from a warm, sunlit amphitheatre at 400 meters above sea level, it marries depth and precision with the haunting finesse that defines great mountain Nebbiolo. This is a landmark vintage, widely seen as a statement of intent: Molsino is poised to become the Monfortino of Alto Piemonte.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2018 Vigna Molsino shows a deep, vibrant garnet hue with brick-tinged edges, hinting at Nebbiolo’s classic evolution while retaining a youthful core. The nose is intensely layered, unfurling dark cherry and ripe plum alongside notes of sage, menthol, fresh leather, and a dusting of dark spice. With air, hints of dried rose, licorice, and crushed stone emerge, adding complexity and a distinctly alpine lift. On the palate, the wine is potent and authoritative yet finely etched, with a firm backbone of tannin wrapped around concentrated dark fruit. Flavors of black cherry, blood orange, and plum are interwoven with savory herbs, tobacco leaf, and graphite, leading into a long, resonant finish that seems to deepen with every sip. The structure is precise and virile, suggesting significant aging potential; this is a Gattinara that will reward patience. Drink from around 2026, with a peak likely between 2030 and 2045+, provided it is well cellared.

Production
Vigna Molsino is one of Gattinara’s most prized crus, a natural south/southwest-facing amphitheatre on mineral-rich, volcanic and porphyry-based soils at about 400 meters of altitude. The combination of ample sunshine, good diurnal swings, and well-drained, poor soils yields Nebbiolo of great concentration, tension, and aromatic lift. Grapes are meticulously hand-harvested at optimal ripeness, with strict selection in both vineyard and cellar. Fermentation is traditionally focused, with extended maceration to extract fine tannins and complex aromatics, followed by long élevage in large neutral casks, allowing the wine to develop depth and harmony without masking its terroir with overt oak.

Food & Serving
This is a deeply structured Gattinara that shines alongside equally characterful cuisine: think braised beef cheek, osso buco, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, or game birds such as guinea fowl and pigeon. Rich mushroom dishes, truffle-infused preparations, aged cheeses (Parmigiano Reggiano, mature Taleggio, or aged alpine cheeses), and earthy risottos are also excellent partners. Serve at 16–18°C (61–64°F) in large Burgundy or Nebbiolo stems. Decant for 2–3 hours in its youth to allow the tannins to relax and the complex aromatics to fully emerge; older bottles will benefit from a more gentle, shorter decant just to remove sediment.

Producer
Nervi, founded in 1906 and regarded as the oldest estate in Gattinara, entered a new era in 2018 when it came under the direction of Roberto Conterno of the legendary Giacomo Conterno estate in Barolo. Renamed Nervi-Conterno, the winery has rapidly become a benchmark for Alto Piemonte, applying Conterno’s exacting standards and classic philosophy to Gattinara’s historic crus. Vigna Molsino, along with Vigna Valferana, stands at the heart of this vision, showcasing just how profound and ageworthy Nebbiolo from these volcanic northern hills can be. Under Roberto Conterno’s stewardship, Nervi-Conterno has elevated Gattinara’s reputation worldwide, with critics increasingly viewing the top bottlings as peers to the greatest wines of the Langhe.

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