Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2018 DBMG

Bottled in an impressive 3L double magnum, Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2018 showcases Nebbiolo’s alpine elegance under the meticulous guidance of Roberto Conterno. This is the very first vintage fully vinified and bottled after Conterno’s 2018 acquisition of the historic Nervi estate, and it clearly bears his hallmark of precision and restraint. From the cooler, volcanic slopes of Alto Piemonte, this Gattinara offers a more chiselled, mineral expression of Nebbiolo than its Barolo cousins, with exemplary freshness and poise.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2018 Gattinara shows a luminous, transparent garnet core with brick-tinged edges, typical of Nebbiolo from the north. The nose is beautifully lifted and aromatic, opening with wild rose petals, dried violets and redcurrants, followed by sour cherry, blood orange zest and pomegranate. Underneath sit finely etched notes of crushed stone, graphite, balsamic herbs and a whisper of tar and sweet spice. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied yet intense, driven by a vivid acidity that gives it wonderful energy and length. Red berries, wild strawberry and redcurrant are layered with hints of cranberry, anise, rosehip, and a subtle smoky, tarry complexity. The tannins are firm but ultra-fine and polished, framing the fruit rather than overwhelming it. There is a clear sense of mineral tension, with a saline, stony finish that lingers on notes of herbs and tea leaves. While already engaging in its youthful, primary phase, this 2018 has the structure and acidity to age gracefully for 12–20+ years, particularly in this 3L format, which will extend its evolution and preserve freshness.

Production
Nervi-Conterno’s Gattinara is sourced from estate vineyards on the volcanic slopes of Gattinara in Alto Piemonte, where porphyry and mineral-rich soils, high altitudes and strong diurnal shifts yield Nebbiolo of striking finesse and tension. The 2018 vintage, though challenging in parts of Piemonte, performed notably well here, allowing Roberto Conterno to confidently produce both his cru bottlings (Molsino and Valferana) and this classically styled Gattinara. Grapes are hand-harvested at optimal ripeness, with strict selection both in the vineyard and at the winery. Fermentation takes place in large tanks with careful temperature control and a focus on gentle extraction to preserve aromatics and fine tannins. The wine is then aged in large neutral botti (traditional large oak casks), allowing slow micro-oxygenation without overt oak imprint, so the terroir’s floral, mineral character and Nebbiolo’s natural elegance remain at the forefront.

Food & Serving
This Gattinara is a superb match for refined yet savoury dishes: think veal roast with herbs, braised lamb shoulder, game birds, risotto with porcini, truffle-infused dishes, and aged hard cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano or mature Alpine cheeses. Its brisk acidity and fine tannins also complement cured meats and rich poultry preparations. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F) in large Burgundy or Nebbiolo stems to allow the aromatics to expand. In this 3L double magnum, decanting for 1–2 hours is recommended in its youth to open the bouquet and soften the tannins, while older bottles will benefit from a slightly shorter, more gentle decanting to preserve delicate tertiary notes.

Producer
Nervi is the oldest officially registered winery in Gattinara, founded in the early 20th century and long regarded as a reference point for Nebbiolo from Alto Piemonte. In 2018, the venerable estate entered a new chapter when Roberto Conterno of the legendary Giacomo Conterno in Barolo acquired it, renaming it Nervi-Conterno and bringing his exacting standards north. This union of historic vineyards and one of Italy’s most revered winemaking families has elevated Gattinara’s profile on the world stage, highlighting the region’s ability to rival Barolo and Barbaresco in finesse and ageworthiness. Under Conterno’s stewardship, Nervi-Conterno has become a benchmark for classically styled, terroir-driven Nebbiolo from volcanic soils, with its Gattinara and single-vineyard wines regularly earning critical acclaim and renewed attention for Alto Piemonte.

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