J.B.Becker Riesling Wallufer Walkenberg Auslese durchgegoren 2022 white

J.B. Becker’s Riesling Wallufer Walkenberg Auslese durchgegoren 2022 is a serious, dry-style Rheingau Riesling crafted from Auslese-selected grapes that are fermented completely through (“durchgegoren”) to dryness. This is not a sweet Auslese, but an intensely concentrated, mineral-driven white with remarkable depth and structure. Sourced from the steep, historic Wallufer Walkenberg vineyard above the Rhine, it combines old-school craftsmanship with the precision and tension that have made Becker a cult name among Riesling lovers.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2022 Wallufer Walkenberg Auslese durchgegoren shows a bright, pale lemon color with greenish reflections, hinting at both youth and vibrancy. The nose is compact yet complex: ripe lemon and lime zest, green and yellow apple, quince, and white peach, layered with smoky slate, wet stone, delicate herbal notes, and a touch of spontaneous fermentation character and subtle reductive flint. On the palate, this is focused, dry and tightly wound, with a pronounced, linear acidity that carries concentrated fruit—citrus oil, stone fruits, and crunchy orchard fruit—over a firm mineral backbone. The Auslese-level selection brings texture and density without sweetness, resulting in a wine that is powerful yet restrained, with a long, salty, and slightly spicy finish. Still very young, it will benefit from time: you can drink it now with aeration, but it has excellent aging potential of 10–20 years or more, during which it will gain complexity, nuance, and a more harmonious, silky profile.

Production
The Wallufer Walkenberg is one of Rheingau’s classic steep slopes, with south to southwest exposures overlooking the Rhine and soils dominated by slate, quartzite, and mixed loess-clay—ideal for producing structured, mineral Riesling. J.B. Becker is known for traditional, low-intervention viticulture, often with older vines, low yields and meticulous hand-harvesting to select only perfectly ripe, healthy Auslese-level grapes. In the cellar, the must is typically fermented spontaneously with native yeasts, often in large, old oak casks, and allowed to ferment fully dry (“durchgegoren”), with extended lees contact to build texture and complexity. The approach is resolutely classical: slow, patient winemaking that emphasizes terroir expression over cosmetic polish.

Food & Serving
This Riesling’s dry, concentrated, and firmly structured profile makes it an excellent match for refined and flavorful dishes. Think poached or roasted turbot, sole, or halibut with beurre blanc, scallops, crab, or langoustines, as well as veal in light cream sauces, roasted poultry, or classic German dishes such as Zander (pike-perch) with butter and herbs. It also pairs beautifully with subtly spicy Asian cuisine—especially dishes that are aromatic rather than fiery, like ginger-scented seafood or steamed dumplings. Serve at 9–11 °C to highlight the precision and freshness. Young bottles benefit from a short decant of 30–60 minutes to open up the nose and soften the structure; mature bottles should be handled gently and decanted only briefly to separate any sediment.

Producer
J. B. Becker is a traditional, family-run estate based in Walluf in the Rheingau, with a history that stretches back to the late 19th century. The Becker family has long championed a classic, no-compromise style of Riesling (and Spätburgunder), often aging their wines longer in cellar and releasing them later than many of their peers, a practice that has earned them a loyal following among sommeliers and collectors. Firmly rooted in the Rheingau’s heritage, they focus on expressing individual vineyard character through low-intervention farming, spontaneous fermentations, and élevage in old oak casks. Over the years, J. B. Becker has gained a reputation as one of the region’s great traditionalists, producing ageworthy, characterful wines that stand out for their authenticity, structure, and unmistakable sense of place.

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