Holger Koch Grauburgunder drei Sterne 2024 white

Holger Koch Grauburgunder drei Sterne 2020 is the estate’s top-tier Pinot Gris from Baden, crafted in tiny quantities from their best, low-yielding parcels. This is not your everyday Grauburgunder, but a finely structured, gastronomic white that balances ripeness, precision and minerality. Positioned at the pinnacle of Koch’s range, the “drei Sterne” bottling showcases just how serious and ageworthy Grauburgunder from Baden’s best sites can be.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the wine shows a luminous, deep straw to pale gold hue, hinting at concentration and careful élevage. The nose is refined yet expressive, with aromas of ripe pear, yellow apple and quince layered over notes of citrus zest, almond, white flowers and a subtle smoky, flinty undertone typical of premium Baden Pinot Gris. On the palate, it is dry, focused and textural rather than overtly opulent, with a beautiful interplay between juicy stone and orchard fruit, fine herbal spice and a salty, stony minerality. The mid-palate has notable depth and creaminess, balanced by vibrant acidity that keeps everything precise and long. Hints of hazelnut, brioche and gentle spice emerge on the finish, suggesting quality maturation. With its structure and concentration, this 2020 has clear aging potential and should evolve gracefully for 6–10 years from vintage, gaining more complexity and tertiary nuances over time.

Production
Weingut Holger Koch farms primarily on the warm, sun-exposed slopes of Baden, in the Kaiserstuhl area, where volcanic and loess soils give Grauburgunder both ripeness and a distinct mineral backbone. The fruit for the “drei Sterne” cuvée typically comes from the estate’s top, carefully selected parcels, harvested by hand at optimal ripeness to ensure perfect fruit quality and strict selection in the vineyard. In the cellar, Koch is known for a restrained, artisanal approach: gentle pressing, spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts and maturation on fine lees in a mix of stainless steel and larger wooden vessels or neutral barrels, all geared toward texture, finesse and transparent expression of site rather than overt oak influence.

Food & Serving
This is a versatile food wine that shines with refined, flavourful dishes. Think roasted poultry, veal in light cream sauces, pork tenderloin, rabbit, rich seafood such as scallops or turbot, as well as mushroom dishes, alpine cheeses and sophisticated vegetable cuisine (asparagus, fennel, root vegetables). It also works beautifully with modern Asian-inspired plates where subtle spice and umami play a role. Serve at 10–12 °C to highlight its freshness and aromatic nuance. A brief decant of 30–45 minutes, especially in its youth, helps the wine open up and reveal its full aromatic and textural complexity.

Producer
Weingut Holger Koch is a highly regarded family-run estate in Baden, situated near the Kaiserstuhl, one of Germany’s warmest and most distinctive winegrowing areas. Over the years, Holger Koch has built a reputation for precision-crafted, Burgundy-influenced wines that emphasize elegance, moderate alcohol, and clear vineyard expression, particularly with Burgunder varieties such as Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder and Spätburgunder. Working with a strong focus on careful vineyard work, low yields and sensitive, low-intervention vinification, the estate has become a reference point in the region for refined, terroir-driven wines. The “drei Sterne” bottlings represent the pinnacle of Koch’s portfolio and are regularly singled out by sommeliers and critics as some of Baden’s most compelling, food-friendly wines.

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