Griesel & Compagnie Pinot Blanc Auerbacher Höllberg Brut Nature 2019 white

Griesel & Compagnie Pinot Blanc Auerbacher Höllberg Brut Nature 2019 is a serious, terroir-driven German sparkling wine crafted entirely from Pinot Blanc (Weißburgunder) and vinified as a Blanc de Blancs. Bone-dry and meticulously made, it showcases the cool elegance of the Hessische Bergstraße and the precision of long lees aging. With only 966 bottles produced and 97 points from both Falstaff (Blanc de Blancs category, 1st place) and Robert Parker, this is a collector-worthy bottling that reflects Germany’s rising status in world-class sparkling wine.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2019 Auerbacher Höllberg Brut Nature shows a pale straw to light golden hue, with a remarkably fine, persistent mousse that speaks to its extended lees aging. The bubbles are delicate yet energetic, forming a tight, creamy bead. The nose is refined and complex: expect notes of ripe yellow apple, white pear, quince and Meyer lemon layered over toasted brioche, roasted hazelnut and delicate vanilla and spice from the French oak. Underneath sits a distinct mineral tone reminiscent of wet stone and crushed rock, reflecting the dioritic soils. On the palate, the wine is dry and precise, with a taut, linear structure and a spine of vibrant acidity. Flavors of citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit and white peach unfold alongside subtle creaminess from 45 months on the lees, balanced by a salty, granitic minerality and a hint of smoke and toasted almond. The Brut Nature style (Dosage Zéro) keeps the finish razor-clean, long and mouthwatering, with lingering notes of citrus peel, chalk and brioche. Built with tension and structure, this 2019 has impressive aging potential; it will drink beautifully now but should continue to gain complexity and depth over the next 5–8 years, possibly longer under good cellaring conditions.

Production
The fruit for this wine comes from the Auerbacher Höllberg, a small plateau site in the Hessische Bergstraße at around 160 meters above sea level with a west-facing exposure. The vines, planted in 2005, grow on loess loam over diorite—a rock very similar to granite—which brings a cool, stony character and a pronounced mineral edge to the wine. Grapes are carefully hand-harvested at optimal ripeness to preserve acidity and aromatic intensity, then undergo spontaneous fermentation and natural malolactic conversion in French oak barrels. The base wine matures in oak before its second fermentation in bottle, where it rests an impressive 45 months on the lees, gaining texture, depth and complexity. Disgorged on 23 May 2024 without any dosage (Dosage Zéro), this Brut Nature cuvée is bottled unadorned by sweetness, allowing the terroir and vintage character to shine with exceptional clarity.

Food & Serving
This precise and mineral-driven Brut Nature is an outstanding partner for refined, high-acid and subtly rich dishes. Think oysters and other raw shellfish, scallop carpaccio, ceviche, tartares, sushi and sashimi, or simply grilled seabass with lemon and herbs. It also pairs beautifully with fine poultry (such as roast chicken or guinea fowl), veal in light cream sauces, or delicate mushroom dishes and truffled pasta. Creamy soft cheeses, young goat cheese and mild bloomy rinds also work very well with its tension and chalky finish. Serve well chilled at around 8–10°C (46–50°F). A short decanting in a carafe or, more discreetly, pouring into a large-bowled white wine or Burgundy glass after opening can help the wine unfurl its more subtle autolytic and oak-derived notes.

Producer
Griesel & Compagnie, based in Bensheim in the Hessische Bergstraße, has quickly gained a reputation as one of Germany’s most exciting addresses for premium sparkling wine (Sekt). Founded with a clear focus on méthode traditionnelle and terroir expression, the estate has helped put the relatively small Hessische Bergstraße region on the map for serious, site-specific sparkling wines. Under the guidance of cellar master Rachele Crosara, Griesel & Compagnie emphasizes meticulous vineyard work, low yields, spontaneous fermentations and extended lees aging to craft complex, gastronomic Sekte that stand shoulder-to-shoulder with top sparkling wines worldwide. The critical acclaim for this Pinot Blanc Auerbacher Höllberg 2019—1st place and 97 points from Falstaff in the Blanc de Blancs category, plus 97 points from Robert Parker—underlines the estate’s status as a benchmark producer in modern German sparkling wine.

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