Gilles & Catherine Vergé Viré-Clessé Le Haut de Boulaise 2002 white

Gilles & Catherine Vergé Viré-Clessé Le Haut de Boulaise 2002 is a rare chance to experience fully mature, old-vine Chardonnay from one of the Maconnais’ most characterful growers. Sourced from the elevated “Haut de Boulaise” site in Viré-Clessé, this wine combines Burgundian finesse with the layered complexity that only careful cellaring can deliver. The 2002 vintage, widely regarded as excellent in Burgundy, has given this cuvée both depth and longevity, making it particularly appealing to collectors and lovers of aged white Burgundy.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this 2002 Viré-Clessé shows a deep straw to light gold hue, reflecting its bottle age and concentration. The nose is complex and evolving, with notes of baked apple, dried pear, acacia honey and almond cream, layered over hints of chamomile, hazelnut, beurre noisette and a subtle mineral smokiness. Gentle oxidative tones—think brioche, toasted nuts and a touch of dried citrus peel—add further nuance without overpowering the wine’s freshness. On the palate, the Chardonnay from Le Haut de Boulaise is broad and textural, with a supple, almost waxy mouthfeel balanced by a persistent, chalky acidity typical of Viré-Clessé’s limestone soils. Flavors of ripe yellow orchard fruit, preserved lemon, nougat and honeycomb mingle with savoury undertones of toasted grain and wet stone. The finish is long, savoury and slightly saline, with a mature, tertiary complexity that rewards unhurried drinking. Properly stored bottles are drinking at peak now, with enough structure and acidity to hold for a few more years, but this vintage is best enjoyed in the near term to capture its full aromatic breadth.

Production
Le Haut de Boulaise lies on the limestone- and clay-rich slopes of Viré-Clessé in the Mâconnais, an area known for producing expressive yet mineral-driven Chardonnay. Gilles and Catherine Vergé have long been associated with low-intervention, vineyard-focused winemaking, favouring healthy, living soils and meticulous work in the vines over heavy-handed cellar techniques. Grapes from this site are typically hand-harvested at good physiological ripeness to preserve both concentration and natural acidity. In the cellar, the must is gently pressed and fermented—often with indigenous yeasts—in neutral vessels or older barrels, allowing the character of the terroir to shine rather than new oak. Extended ageing on the lees enhances texture and depth, contributing to the wine’s ability to age gracefully over decades.

Food & Serving
This mature Viré-Clessé pairs beautifully with richly flavoured dishes that echo its nutty, honeyed and savoury notes. Think roasted poultry with morel or cream sauces, veal blanquette, pan-seared scallops, lobster with drawn butter, or white fish in beurre blanc. It also works well with aged Comté, Beaufort or other nutty alpine cheeses, and refined mushroom dishes such as mushroom vol-au-vent or truffle risotto. Serve slightly cooler than classic room temperature, around 11–13°C (52–55°F), to highlight both freshness and complexity. Decanting for 20–30 minutes can help the wine open up and gently shed any bottle reduction, but handle it delicately to preserve its mature aromas.

Producer
Gilles & Catherine Vergé are respected figures in the Mâconnais, known for championing terroir-driven Chardonnay well before the region received the broader recognition it enjoys today. Working primarily around Viré-Clessé, they have focused on careful vineyard stewardship, lower yields and thoughtful, low-intervention winemaking, helping to elevate the reputation of this once-under-the-radar appellation. Their wines, often sourced from old vines on prime limestone slopes, are celebrated for their purity, texture and capacity to age—qualities that have made the domaine a favourite among Burgundy insiders and fans of authentic, characterful white wines from southern Burgundy.

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