Georges Laval Champagne 1er Cru Les Hautes Chevres Cumieres Brut Nature 2017

Georges Laval Champagne 1er Cru Les Hautes Chèvres Cumières Brut Nature 2017 is a rare, single-vineyard expression of Pinot Meunier from one of Champagne’s most respected grower-producers. Crafted as a Brut Nature, it’s completely uncompromising: no dosage, low intervention, and a crystal-clear reflection of its Premier Cru terroir in Cumières. This is Champagne for purists and collectors alike, showcasing the depth and finesse Meunier can achieve in the right hands.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Les Hautes Chèvres 2017 pours a luminous, deep lemon-gold hue with a fine, persistent mousse that speaks to long lees aging. The nose is intensely expressive and layered: ripe orchard fruits (pear, yellow apple, mirabelle plum) unfold alongside blood orange zest, quince, and a distinct chalky minerality. With air, more complex tones emerge—hazelnut skin, fresh brioche, dried flowers, and a subtle hint of spice and cocoa often associated with top-tier Pinot Meunier. On the palate, the wine is taut, dry and precise, yet surprisingly textured and vinous. The attack is driven by pure, concentrated fruit—baked apple, apricot, and citrus oil—balanced by electric acidity and a saline, almost rocky undertone. The Brut Nature style gives it a straight, linear profile with no sweetness to soften the edges, allowing the structure and terroir to shine. The finish is long, chalk-inflected and mouthwatering, with lingering notes of toasted nuts and citrus pith. While already compelling now, this 2017 has the backbone and concentration to evolve gracefully for another 6–10 years, gaining more complexity, nuttiness and tertiary depth with time in bottle.

Production
Les Hautes Chèvres is a steep, old-vine Premier Cru parcel in Cumières, planted primarily to Pinot Meunier on chalk and limestone-rich soils with clay and sandy topsoils that lend both tension and aromatic nuance. Georges Laval farms these vines organically with meticulous care, favoring low yields and hand-harvesting at optimal ripeness to capture both intensity and freshness. In the cellar, Laval follows a minimalist philosophy: native yeast fermentations, vinification and élevage largely in oak barrels, careful bâtonnage where appropriate, and extended aging on the lees to build complexity and texture. The wine is bottled without chaptalization or dosage as Brut Nature, and typically sees minimal sulfites, ensuring an unmasked, transparent expression of the 2017 vintage and the singular Les Hautes Chèvres terroir.

Food & Serving
This Brut Nature Meunier is a versatile partner at the table, pairing beautifully with refined yet flavorful dishes: think scallops with brown butter and hazelnuts, poached turbot, lobster, or roasted poultry with morel cream sauce. It also shines alongside earthy preparations such as veal sweetbreads, wild mushroom risotto, or aged hard cheeses like Comté and matured Gruyère. For optimal enjoyment, serve at 9–11°C (48–52°F). Decanting for 20–30 minutes, or at least opening the bottle a bit in advance, can help the aromatics fully unfurl and soften the initial edge of its brisk, bone-dry profile.

Producer
Domaine Georges Laval is a benchmark grower in the village of Cumières in the Champagne region of France, known for its tiny production, exacting standards, and some of the earliest organic viticulture in the area. Founded in the mid-20th century and now led by Vincent Laval, the estate has become synonymous with terroir-driven, low-intervention Champagnes that rank among the most distinctive in the region. Working almost entirely by hand and farming organically since the 1970s, Laval focuses on old vines, low yields, and meticulous parcel-by-parcel vinification. The domaine’s Champagnes, frequently bottled as single-vineyard cuvées with minimal dosage or Brut Nature, are highly sought after by collectors and sommeliers worldwide, and have helped cement Cumières’ reputation as one of Champagne’s great crus for characterful, artisanal wines.

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