Franz Gojer - Glögglhof Vernatsch Alte Reben 2023

Franz Gojer Glögglhof Vernatsch Alte Reben 2023 is a beautifully pure expression of Alto Adige’s most traditional red grape, Vernatsch (also known as Trollinger). Sourced from old vines (“Alte Reben”) in the steep hills above Bolzano, this is a light, alpine red with remarkable finesse and drinkability. It combines the charm of a classic everyday South Tyrolean red with the precision and depth that have made Glögglhof one of the region’s benchmark producers for Vernatsch.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2023 Vernatsch Alte Reben shows a luminous, translucent ruby-red color with a delicate garnet hue at the rim. The nose is fragrant and inviting, with notes of wild strawberries, red cherry, pomegranate and redcurrant, layered with floral nuances of violets and rose petals, plus hints of almond, dried herbs and a subtle, stony minerality. On the palate, this is light-bodied yet surprisingly persistent, with silky, ultra-fine tannins and bright, mouthwatering acidity that give it a wonderfully refreshing character. Flavors of crunchy red berries, sour cherry and cranberry are joined by hints of spice, bitter almond and a gentle savory note that keeps the wine dry and precise. The finish is clean, lifted and slightly saline, making each sip very moreish. While this wine is designed to be enjoyed in its youth for maximum vibrancy, the old-vine concentration and balance suggest it will evolve gracefully over 3–5 years, gaining complexity while retaining its elegant, airy style.

Production
The Vernatsch Alte Reben bottling comes from old vineyards around the Glögglhof estate in St. Magdalener, just above Bolzano in Trentino–Alto Adige. These steep, terraced sites sit on warm, well-drained porphyry and morainic soils, which help produce grapes of great aromatic purity and finesse while preserving freshness thanks to the cool alpine climate and strong diurnal shifts. The vines are traditionally trained and meticulously farmed, with low yields and a strong focus on manual work in the vineyard, including hand-harvesting to ensure optimal ripeness and fruit selection. In the cellar, Franz Gojer favors a gentle, minimalist approach: careful destemming, a relatively short and delicate maceration to avoid harsh tannins, and fermentation in stainless steel or large, neutral oak, followed by a period of maturation on the fine lees. The aim is to capture the perfume, lightness and authentic character of Vernatsch without excessive extraction or oak influence.

Food & Serving
This is an exceptionally versatile food wine that pairs beautifully with alpine and Mediterranean-inspired dishes alike. Try it with Tyrolean specialties such as speck, cured meats, smoked sausages and soft to semi-hard mountain cheeses, or serve alongside roast chicken, herb-crusted pork, mushroom risotto, light pasta dishes, grilled trout or a classic Margherita or prosciutto pizza. Its delicate structure and bright acidity also make it an excellent match for charcuterie boards and simple, rustic fare. Serve lightly chilled at around 14–16°C to highlight its freshness and aromatics. Decanting is not strictly necessary, but a brief 15–20 minutes in a carafe can help the aromas open up, especially when the wine is very young.

Producer
Glögglhof is the family-run estate of Franz Gojer, widely regarded as one of the most important interpreters of Vernatsch in Alto Adige. Situated in the historic St. Magdalener area above Bolzano, the winery has long focused on producing characterful, terroir-driven wines that showcase the finesse and drinkability of the region’s traditional grape varieties. Over the years, Gojer has helped redefine expectations for Vernatsch, proving that this often-underestimated variety can yield wines of real depth, precision and longevity when grown in top hillside sites and from old vines. The estate’s bottlings are now considered reference points for the style, frequently praised by critics and sommeliers for their clarity, balance and authentic sense of place.

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