Dönnhoff Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg GG 2022 MG

From one of Germany’s most revered Riesling producers, the 2022 Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlberg Grosses Gewächs in magnum format captures the power and precision of a truly great Nahe dry Riesling. Sourced from a special old-vine parcel in the stoniest part of the Höllenpfad vineyard, this wine marries mineral depth with an almost electric intensity of fruit. Bottled in 1.5L, it’s built both for the dinner table and for graceful aging in the cellar.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this GG shows a bright, pale lemon color with silvery highlights, hinting at both youth and concentration. The nose opens with shy but pure notes of ripe apricot and citrus, still wrapped in a fine veil of yeast from its élevage, then turns more expressive with nuances of lemon oil, white pepper and a distinct stony, almost ferrous minerality. On the palate, the wine is bone dry, taut and finely etched, with a strikingly rock-infused structure that reflects its permian sandstone origins. Layers of concentrated lemon zest, ripe stone fruit and citrus oil are carried by a vibrant, linear acidity, while accents of white pepper and iron oxide add a savoury complexity. The texture is simultaneously chiselled and rounded, with an insistent, mouthwatering intensity that builds towards a long, precise and saline finish where buffered lemon peel and spice linger. In magnum, the 2022 has excellent aging potential; it will reward 8–15 years in the cellar, gaining further depth, complexity and harmony over time.

Production
The Höllenpfad im Mühlberg Grosses Gewächs comes from a particularly old parcel, around 40 years of age, rooted deep in the most stony sections of permian sandstone in the Roxheimer Höllenpfad, one of the Nahe’s most characterful steep sites. This poor, rocky terroir naturally restricts yields and intensifies mineral expression, while the slope and exposure ensure perfect ripening of Riesling at modest alcohol levels. Grapes are typically hand-harvested in multiple passes to ensure only optimally ripe, healthy fruit makes it into the press. Vinification at Dönnhoff is deliberately gentle and traditional: the Riesling is softly pressed, fermented with selected or ambient yeasts at controlled temperatures, and matured on fine lees to build texture and finesse, all while preserving the clarity and purity expected of a Grosses Gewächs bottling.

Food & Serving
This dry, structured Riesling is a superb partner for refined, subtly aromatic dishes. Think poached or roasted white fish with citrus and herbs, sashimi or crudo, scallops, grilled prawns, or classic German-inspired pairings like sautéed trout with almonds. It also pairs beautifully with light veal dishes, roast chicken, and vegetable-driven plates such as asparagus, fennel, or artichokes prepared with a citrusy or herbaceous touch. Serve cool, around 9–11°C (48–52°F), to let the aromatics unfurl without muting the mineral expression. Young bottles will benefit from 30–60 minutes in a carafe, especially from magnum, to allow the yeast notes to integrate and the layered citrus, stone fruit and spice complexity to fully emerge.

Producer
Weingut Dönnhoff, based in Oberhausen on the Nahe, is widely regarded as one of Germany’s elite Riesling estates and a benchmark for both dry and sweet styles. The family has been cultivating vines in the region for over 250 years, but it was under Helmut Dönnhoff—and now his son Cornelius—that the winery rose to international prominence, with an unwavering focus on expressing the unique character of the Nahe’s diverse slate, volcanic and sandstone soils. Dönnhoff’s Grosse Gewächse from top sites like Höllenpfad, Hermannshöhle, and Dellchen are consistently among Germany’s most coveted dry Rieslings, regularly earning top scores from leading critics and cementing the estate’s reputation as a standard-bearer for precision, longevity and terroir-driven purity.

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