Bertram - Baltes Alte Reben Blanc de Noir 2020 white

Bertram-Baltes Alte Reben Blanc de Noir 2019 is a strikingly serious take on a style more often associated with easy, fruit-driven drinking. Crafted entirely from old-vine Spätburgunder grown on steep slate slopes in the Ahr, it delivers a level of depth and tension rarely found in Blanc de Noir. This is a white wine with the soul of a great Pinot Noir: precise, cool-fruited and mineral, yet full of quiet power and nuance.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this Blanc de Noir shows a very pale, shimmering straw colour with delicate copper and onion-skin highlights – a visual cue to its red-grape origins. The nose is cool, pure and finely etched, opening with white currant and gooseberry, followed by notes of citrus zest, green pear and a touch of crunchy apple. Beneath the fruit lies a subtle smokiness reminiscent of wet slate and flint, alongside gentle hints of spice and a whisper of lightly toasted wood. On the palate, the wine is razor-precise and linear, driven by a vibrant, almost biting acidity that lends great tension and length. The fruit remains restrained and finely detailed – white berries, lemon peel and a touch of quince – allowing the mineral core and savoury, slatey backbone to take centre stage. The texture is silky yet firm, with a faint phenolic grip that adds structure without weight. The finish is long, cool and saline, suggesting excellent aging potential for a Blanc de Noir; it will drink beautifully now but should develop further complexity over the next 3–5 years, gaining more nuttiness and savoury depth.

Production
The grapes for Alte Reben Blanc de Noir come from old Spätburgunder vines rooted in the Ahr’s classic steep slate slopes, a terroir that naturally yields low quantities of intensely flavoured fruit with strong mineral expression. Harvesting is done by hand to ensure perfect selection of healthy, ripe bunches, picked relatively early to preserve acidity and freshness. In the cellar, the red grapes are gently pressed with minimal skin contact to obtain a clear must, which is then fermented as a white wine. Elevage takes place in large, neutral wooden casks, allowing micro-oxygenation and texture development without overt oak flavours, and the wine is left on its lees to gain additional complexity, finesse and length.

Food & Serving
This Blanc de Noir is an excellent partner for finely textured dishes where acidity and minerality can shine. Think crudo and ceviche, oysters and shellfish, lightly smoked fish, sushi and sashimi, as well as delicate poultry, veal tartare or vegetable-focused cuisine such as asparagus, artichokes and fennel-based dishes. It also works beautifully with soft goat cheese and fresh cheeses with a tangy profile. Serve well-chilled but not icy, ideally around 9–11 °C, to let the aromatics unfold without muting the minerality. Decanting is not strictly necessary, but a brief splash in a carafe or some time in the glass can help the wine open up and soften the youthful edge of its acidity.

Producer
Bertram-Baltes is one of the most exciting names in the Ahr, a region long celebrated for its distinctive, slate-driven Spätburgunder. Led by Julia Bertram and Benedikt Baltes, the estate has quickly gained a reputation for meticulous vineyard work, low yields and a sensitive, terroir-focused approach in the cellar. With deep roots in the region and experience across top German Pinot terroirs, they have helped redefine what Ahr Pinot can be: elegant, precise, and profoundly mineral. Their wines regularly draw attention from critics and sommeliers for their purity, balance and authentic expression of site, placing Bertram-Baltes firmly among the new generation of standout German Pinot specialists.

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