Von Winning Riesling Ungeheuer Großes Gewächs 2023 white

Von Winning Riesling Ungeheuer Großes Gewächs 2023 is a dry, single-vineyard Riesling from one of the most legendary sites in the Pfalz. Grown on the steep slopes of Forst, this wine combines impressive power with deep, smoky minerality and an almost Burgundian sense of texture. As a Großes Gewächs, it represents the top tier of dry Riesling in Germany, crafted for both immediate fascination and long-term cellaring.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the Ungeheuer GG 2023 shows a pale straw to light golden color with a shimmering, almost crystalline brightness — a visual hint at its concentration and precision. The nose opens at first a little reserved, then slowly unfurls with air: freshly cut grass and herbal notes give way to delicate yellow orchard fruit such as mirabelle plums and apricots. With time, deeper layers emerge: ripe citrus zest, orange peel, hints of overripe lemon, honeydew melon, and a subtle smokiness from the barrel. Beneath it all, a strong mineral backbone and a whisper of fine, well-integrated oak create real aromatic tension. On the palate, the wine is dry, silky and elegant, with a cool, stony core. Juicy yellow fruit is wrapped in vibrant yet finely tuned acidity, giving the wine clarity and precision without any harshness. Gentle wood notes, a touch of spice and saline, basalt-driven minerality lend structure and length. The finish is long, layered and finessed, with the Forst terroir clearly speaking through. With its balance of ripe fruit, fresh acidity and a touch of residual sugar in the classic GG range, the 2023 has excellent aging potential: expect it to develop more honeyed, smoky and nutty nuances over 8–15 years, and likely longer under good cellaring conditions.

Production
The Ungeheuer vineyard in Forst is one of the Pfalz’s most celebrated Lagen, known for its heavy clay and loam soils interspersed with limestone and basalt deposits. This complex subsoil gives the Riesling both power and a deep, smoky mineral profile. Von Winning works sustainably in the vineyards, focusing on low yields, careful canopy management and largely hand harvesting to ensure only perfectly ripe, healthy grapes reach the cellar. The fruit for this Großes Gewächs is selected parcel by parcel and picked relatively late to capture full phenolic ripeness while preserving acidity. In the cellar, the must is gently pressed and often fermented with indigenous yeasts, then matured predominantly in large oak barrels (often traditional Stück or Doppelstück) on the full lees. This approach lends the wine its characteristic texture, subtle oak imprint and layered complexity, while still keeping the focus squarely on terroir.

Food & Serving
This is a serious food wine that shines with refined, flavorful cuisine. Try it with roasted or grilled sea bass, turbot or monkfish, scallops with beurre blanc, or classic dishes such as Wiener Schnitzel with lemon and potato salad. It pairs beautifully with poultry in cream or morel sauces, veal, and high-quality pork dishes, as well as sophisticated vegetable plates with asparagus, fennel or celeriac. Mature hard cheeses and semi-soft washed-rind cheeses also work very well. Serve at 10–12°C to highlight both its freshness and depth. Young bottles benefit from 30–60 minutes in a carafe to allow the wine to open and reveal its layers; older vintages can be decanted more gently to separate any sediment and fully express their tertiary aromas.

Producer
Weingut Von Winning, based in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, is one of Germany’s most dynamic and highly regarded estates, particularly known for its powerful, dry, terroir-driven Rieslings. Founded in the 19th century and revitalized in the modern era with a strong focus on sustainable viticulture and meticulous vineyard work, Von Winning farms many of the region’s top sites, including the famed Forster Ungeheuer. The estate has become a benchmark for a more textural, often oak-aged style of Riesling that still remains precise and mineral. Their Großes Gewächs wines, such as this Ungeheuer, are regularly praised by leading wine critics and guides, and have helped to cement the Pfalz’s reputation as one of the world’s finest regions for dry Riesling.