Van Volxem Goldberg GG 2022
Van Volxem Goldberg GG 2022 is a top‑tier dry Riesling from one of the Saar’s most revered sites, crafted in the classic Grosses Gewächs style. This is a wine that trades in nuance and quiet power rather than showiness, revealing its…
+ Read moreVan Volxem Goldberg GG 2022 is a top‑tier dry Riesling from one of the Saar’s most revered sites, crafted in the classic Grosses Gewächs style. This is a wine that trades in nuance and quiet power rather than showiness, revealing its depth slowly with time in the glass and in the cellar. Combining razor‑sharp precision with impressive texture, it is built for serious Riesling lovers and for long-term aging.
Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2022 Goldberg GG shows a pale lemon color with green reflections, hinting at its youth and freshness. The nose is initially restrained and almost shy, showing cool citrus—lemon zest, lime and a touch of grapefruit—interwoven with subtle earthy notes of wet stone, yeast, and a gentle herbal nuance. As it opens, a more complex, smoky-slate minerality begins to emerge. On the palate, the wine is bone dry, compact and tightly coiled, with a pronounced, almost creamy yeast-derived texture that wraps around the bright citrus fruit. There’s impressive depth and concentration, but the energy is currently held in reserve, giving the impression of a “sleeping” wine waiting to unfurl. The finish is long, stony and saline, with a fine, persistent acidity that promises excellent aging potential. Give it several years in bottle to fully reveal its layers; 2022 Goldberg GG should evolve beautifully over 10–15+ years, gaining more complexity, spice and savory mineral notes with time.
Production
Goldberg is a steep, sun-exposed hillside in Wawern on the Saar, a Mosel subregion famed for its cool climate and slate-rich soils. Here, old vines dig deep into weathered slate and quartzite, producing naturally low yields and intensely characterful Riesling. The grapes for this Grosses Gewächs are typically harvested by hand in multiple passes to ensure optimal ripeness and perfect fruit selection. In the cellar, Van Volxem follows a minimally interventionist philosophy: gentle pressing, native yeast fermentation and extended lees aging, often in large traditional oak fuders and/or stainless steel. This approach preserves the purity of fruit and sharp mineral line of the site while building the dense, textural mid-palate that defines the 2022 Goldberg GG.
Food & Serving
This structured, bone-dry Riesling is a superb partner for refined, subtly aromatic cuisine. Think shellfish (especially scallops, langoustines and prawns), steamed or poached white fish, sushi and sashimi, or fine vegetable dishes such as asparagus, fennel, or artichokes. It also shines alongside lightly spiced Asian dishes, tartare, and poultry with citrus or herb sauces. Serve well chilled but not icy—around 9–11°C (48–52°F) is ideal. Young bottles benefit from a brief decant of 30–60 minutes to help the wine open up and release its more delicate aromatics.
Producer
Van Volxem is one of the star estates of the Saar, historically renowned since the 19th century when its wines were poured in top European restaurants and fetched prices rivaling the greatest Bordeaux. Revitalized in modern times with a focus on dry, terroir-driven Riesling, the estate owns prime parcels on steep, slate-laden slopes along the Saar River. Van Volxem has played a key role in the renaissance of Saar Riesling, championing low yields, meticulous vineyard work and minimalist winemaking to highlight the character of each vineyard. Its Grosses Gewächs bottlings, such as Goldberg, are now considered benchmarks for precision, minerality and aging capacity in the Mosel region and beyond.