Réne Barbier Clos Mogador Manyetes 2020
Réne BarbierClos Mogador Manyetes 2020 is a powerful, single-vineyard red from Priorat, crafted by René Barbier, one of the region’s true pioneers. Made entirely from Cariñena (Carignan), it captures the raw intensity of Priorat’s steep, slate-rich…
+ Read moreClos Mogador Manyetes 2020 is a powerful, single-vineyard red from Priorat, crafted by René Barbier, one of the region’s true pioneers. Made entirely from Cariñena (Carignan), it captures the raw intensity of Priorat’s steep, slate-rich hillsides while reflecting the challenges of an unusually wet, low-yielding vintage. With only 1,200 bottles produced, this is a rare and characterful expression of a great terroir in a demanding year.
Tasting Notes
In the glass, Manyetes 2020 shows a deep, dark garnet core with violet highlights, hinting at both concentration and youth. The nose is ripe and brooding, with dark berry and black cherry fruit layered over notes of wild Mediterranean herbs, licorice, crushed rock and a subtle, savory earthiness. Hints of graphite, spice and a delicate floral lift emerge with air, speaking clearly of its Priorat origins. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, dense and serious, with a firm backbone of ripe but abundant tannins. The dark fruit is complemented by notes of cocoa, dried herbs and a distinct mineral edge derived from the llicorella slate. Despite the richness, the structure remains upright and somewhat restrained at this early stage, suggesting the wine needs time to fully harmonize. The finish is long, slightly warming and grippy, with a lingering impression of black fruit and stone. Given its tannic frame and concentration, this vintage should benefit from several years of cellaring, with an optimal drinking window likely opening from around 2026 onward and continuing for a decade beyond, depending on storage conditions.
Production
Manyetes is a steep, sun-drenched single vineyard in Priorat’s Gratallops area, planted on classic llicorella (decomposed slate) terraces that naturally limit yields and concentrate flavor. In 2020, an unusually wet year for Priorat brought mildew pressure and drastically reduced the crop, with the estate losing around 70% of its production. The remaining Cariñena was carefully harvested by hand to ensure only the healthiest grapes were used. Vinification was adapted to the vintage: after fermentation, the wine was first aged in a 600-liter oak demi-muid and glass demijohns, then removed from wood and finished its maturation in a ceramic (gres) vessel. This material behaves more like concrete than terracotta, offering gentle micro-oxygenation while being less oxidative, helping to preserve purity of fruit and a precise, mineral-driven profile despite the challenges of the year.
Food & Serving
This structured and intense Priorat is best matched with richly flavored, hearty dishes that can stand up to its tannins and concentration. Think slow-braised lamb shanks, grilled ribeye with rosemary, game dishes such as venison or wild boar, or deeply flavored stews with chorizo and smoked paprika. Aged hard cheeses like Manchego or Comté also make excellent partners. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F) to highlight its complexity without emphasizing alcohol. In its youth, decanting for 1.5–2 hours is strongly recommended to soften the tannins and allow the wine’s aromatic layers to unfold; older bottles will need a gentler, shorter decant to remove sediment.
Producer
René Barbier is one of the founding figures of modern Priorat and the visionary behind Clos Mogador, widely regarded as one of the benchmark estates of the region. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Barbier and a small group of like-minded winemakers helped revive this historic but then-neglected Catalan appellation, demonstrating its potential to produce world-class, terroir-driven wines. Clos Mogador’s holdings around Gratallops, including the Manyetes vineyard, are farmed with meticulous care and a deep respect for the rugged landscape. Over the decades, the estate has garnered international acclaim, consistently earning high scores and cementing its reputation as a reference point for concentrated, ageworthy Priorat reds that faithfully reflect their origin.