Comando G La Bruja Estate 2023
Comando GComando G’s La Bruja de Rozas 2023 is one of Spain’s most sought‑after expressions of high-altitude Garnacha, capturing the wild, granitic landscape of the Sierra de Gredos in a remarkably delicate, perfumed red. In this vintage the wine…
+ Read moreComando G’s La Bruja de Rozas 2023 is one of Spain’s most sought‑after expressions of high-altitude Garnacha, capturing the wild, granitic landscape of the Sierra de Gredos in a remarkably delicate, perfumed red. In this vintage the wine is now sourced 100% from Cebreros, bringing even greater precision, freshness and a tighter regional focus. Expect a beautifully balanced, floral and red‑fruited wine that combines serious terroir character with sheer drinkability.
Tasting Notes
In the glass, La Bruja de Rozas 2023 shows a translucent, vibrant ruby hue, more akin to a refined mountain Pinot than a stereotypical Spanish red. The nose is lifted and pure: red cherries, wild strawberries and pomegranate mingle with violets, rose petals, Mediterranean herbs and a subtle stony, granite-led minerality. On the palate, it’s juicy, medium-bodied and wonderfully fluid, with that “meaty and succulent” feel layered over a finely etched, almost weightless frame. Bright red fruit is wrapped in fine, chalky tannins and a line of mouth-watering acidity that keeps the 14% alcohol feeling poised and elegant. Notes of blood orange, dried herbs, white pepper and crushed rock unfold with air, leading to a long, sapid, refreshingly dry finish. While already expressive on release, the 2023 has the structure and freshness to develop more complexity over the next 5–8 years, gaining savory nuance and further aromatic detail.
Production
La Bruja de Rozas 2023 comes entirely from old-vine Garnacha grown around Cebreros in the Sierra de Gredos, a mountainous area with poor, sandy-granitic soils and pronounced day–night temperature swings. These high-altitude bush vines are typically farmed organically with low yields, which concentrate flavor while preserving acidity and aromatic lift. Harvest is done by hand, parcel by parcel, to ensure optimal ripeness and careful selection of bunches. In the cellar, Comando G favors a gentle, minimalist approach: whole or mostly whole bunch fermentation with native yeasts, long but delicate macerations to extract fine tannin rather than power, and élevage in large, neutral oak foudres or older barrels. The result is a wine that transparently reflects its granite terroir—stony, floral and precise—rather than the imprint of heavy oak or extraction.
Food & Serving
This elegant mountain Garnacha is extremely versatile at the table, pairing beautifully with grilled lamb chops, roast chicken with herbs, charcuterie, jamón ibérico, game birds, and rustic dishes like rabbit or pork stews. It’s also excellent with Mediterranean vegetable dishes—think roasted peppers, eggplant, mushroom ragù, and tomato-based pastas—as well as semi-hard cheeses such as Manchego or Tomme-style cheeses. Serve at a cool 14–16°C to emphasize its freshness and aromatic lift. A brief decant of 20–30 minutes is recommended when young to let reductive notes blow off and allow the floral and mineral character to fully emerge.
Producer
Comando G is one of Spain’s most influential new-wave producers, founded by friends Fernando García and Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi, who set out to reveal the Burgundian-like finesse of old-vine Garnacha in the Sierra de Gredos. Working with tiny parcels of ancient bush vines planted on high-altitude granite slopes west of Madrid, they helped redefine what Spanish Garnacha can be: pale, perfumed, mineral and terrifically elegant. Their work has put regions like Cebreros and the broader Gredos area firmly on the fine-wine map, drawing critical acclaim and a devoted following worldwide. Wines like La Bruja de Rozas serve as their ‘gateway’ bottlings, showcasing the estate’s meticulous, almost Burgundian focus on site and purity at a remarkably accessible level.
Recommended by top sommeliers
