2023 Envinate Taganan Tinto
EnvinateEnvínate’s Taganan Tinto 2023 is a vivid, coastal red that captures the wild Atlantic energy of Tenerife’s rugged north shore. Sourced from vertiginous old-vine parcels overlooking the ocean, it offers a distinctive, mineral-driven expression quite unlike mainland Spanish reds. This field-blend cuvée draws on a patchwork of indigenous varieties and heroic viticulture, echoing centuries of Canary Islands winegrowing history in a thoroughly contemporary, terroir-focused style.
Tasting Notes
In the glass, Taganan Tinto 2023 shows a translucent ruby to garnet hue, with a slightly wild, unpolished edge that hints at its minimal-intervention upbringing. The nose is lifted and aromatic, layered with red berries, sour cherry, pomegranate and wild strawberry, backed by notes of dried herbs, black pepper, smoked tea, crushed volcanic rock and a subtle salty, sea-spray character. On the palate, this is medium-bodied but intense, with bright, mouthwatering acidity and finely gritty tannins that feel more like structure than weight. Flavors of red currant, cranberry and blood orange intertwine with savory notes of dried flowers, olive tapenade, bay leaf and a distinctive volcanic stoniness. The finish is long, sapid and saline, making each sip feel energetic and refreshing rather than heavy. While it drinks beautifully in its youth for its vibrancy and aromatic complexity, it should develop more spice, umami and tertiary notes over the next 4–7 years.
Production
Taganan Tinto is sourced from old bush vines clinging to the precipitous slopes around the village of Taganana on Tenerife’s northeastern coast in the Canary Islands. These tiny parcels, many over 60–100 years old, are planted on decomposed volcanic soils just above the Atlantic, where constant ocean breezes and a mild climate keep the wines naturally fresh. The vineyards are worked by hand—mechanization is nearly impossible on such steep, terraced sites—and farming follows organic principles with a strong respect for biodiversity. Harvest is done manually, variety by variety, with careful selection in the vineyard. In the cellar, Envínate vinifies the different indigenous grapes—typically a field blend of Listán Negro, Negramoll, and other local varieties—largely as whole clusters, allowing for gentle extraction and aromatic lift. Fermentations are spontaneous with native yeasts, and the wine is aged in a mix of concrete and older neutral barrels to preserve purity, texture and minerality, with minimal sulfur and no heavy filtration.
Food & Serving
Taganan Tinto’s bright acidity and savory, saline edge make it extremely versatile at the table. It pairs wonderfully with grilled or roasted seafood (especially tuna, octopus or sardines), charred vegetables, tomato-based dishes, and simply prepared white meats such as roast chicken or pork with herbs. It’s also excellent with tapas, cured meats, and dishes that feature smoky or earthy elements, like grilled mushrooms or paella with morcilla. Serve slightly chilled at around 14–16°C (57–61°F) to highlight its freshness and aromatic complexity. A brief decant of 20–30 minutes helps the wine open up and smooth out the tannins, especially in its first few years after release.
Producer
Envínate is a small, highly regarded collective of four friends—Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, Roberto Santana and José Martínez—who met while studying oenology and set out to champion Atlantic-influenced, terroir-driven wines across Spain. Their work in the Canary Islands, particularly on Tenerife, has been instrumental in reviving historic vineyard sites and little-known local grape varieties, showing the world just how distinctive these oceanic, volcanic terroirs can be. Envínate eschews heavy winemaking tricks in favor of organic farming, low-intervention cellar work, and an emphasis on freshness, texture and place. Taganan has become one of their flagship bottlings, widely praised by sommeliers and critics for its authenticity and its ability to communicate the raw, wild character of Tenerife’s north coast.
Recommended by top sommeliers
