2019 Weingut Schätzel Ölberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs

The 2019 Weingut Schätzel Ölberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs is a razor‑sharp, intensely mineral dry Riesling from one of the most coveted slopes of the Roter Hang in Rheinhessen. Crafted in tiny quantities by biodynamic pioneer Kai Schätzel, this Grosses Gewächs (Grand Cru) bottling balances astonishing concentration with a remarkably low natural alcohol level. It stands out as a modern benchmark for German dry Riesling, uniting old‑vine fruit, minimal intervention and a vivid sense of place. Drawing on the iron‑rich clay and red slate soils of the Ölberg site, this wine delivers a tightly wound structure, piercing acidity and profound depth of flavor. Schätzel’s rise from a neglected family estate to VDP membership and critical acclaim in just over a decade has made his wines some of the most sought‑after in Rheinhessen, with many cuvées sold out before they are even bottled.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2019 Ölberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs typically shows a pale to medium lemon color with a faint, natural haze that hints at its low‑intervention upbringing, sometimes catching the light with subtle green and pale orange reflections. The nose is vivid and complex: initial flinty reduction and yeast nuances open into layers of lemon zest, lime peel and green apple, supported by fine herbal tones like chervil, lemon balm and sage. Floral notes of acacia blossom, chamomile and wild daisies add lift, while white pepper, coriander seed and a touch of fresh ginger evoke a fine, spicy edge. On the palate, this is lean, taut and laser‑focused, with a cool, juicy core and striking mineral grip from the red slate soils. Citrus and stone‑fruit flavors—think Meyer lemon, lime and restrained white peach—are wrapped in a firm, salty backbone, giving the wine both tension and depth. Hints of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and a gentle nuttiness appear toward the long, savory finish. The alcohol sits impressively low for a Grosses Gewächs (around 11–11.5%), enhancing drinkability while preserving intensity. Built for the long haul, this 2019 has significant aging potential; over 8–15 years it should gain creamier texture, more tertiary notes of honey, smoke and dried herbs, and even greater aromatic complexity.

Production
Weingut Schätzel farms the Ölberg vineyard on the famed Roter Hang—a steep, south‑ to southwest‑facing slope in Rheinhessen characterized by iron‑rich clay and red slate that impart a distinctive, salty‑mineral profile and spicy, playful Riesling character. Working fully biodynamically, yields are kept very low, trading volume for concentration, texture and purity of flavor. Grapes are hand‑harvested at optimal ripeness, then whole clusters are traditionally crushed by foot or rubber boots, followed by an extended maceration on the skins—often around a week—to draw out aromatic complexity, structure and phenolic grip. Fermentation proceeds spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in large, old wooden casks, and the wine is raised on its lees in these neutral barrels. Sulfur additions, if used at all, are kept extremely minimal, allowing the natural character of the vineyard and vintage to shine through.

Food & Serving
This dry, structured Riesling is a superb partner for refined, nuanced cuisine. It excels with delicate but flavorful dishes such as sashimi and crudo, ceviche, steamed or grilled white fish with citrus and herbs, or scallops with light beurre blanc. Its herbal and spicy notes also make it a natural match for Asian‑influenced dishes—think lightly spiced Thai or Vietnamese seafood, lemongrass chicken, or sushi with yuzu and ginger—as well as classic German pairings like freshwater fish, cured trout, or lightly smoked charcuterie. For meat, try veal schnitzel, roast chicken with lemon and herbs, or pork with fennel and apple. Serve well‑chilled but not icy, ideally at 9–11 °C (48–52 °F), to let the aromatics unfold. A brief decant of 30–45 minutes is recommended in the first years after release to soften the initial reduction and bring out the wine’s floral, herbal and mineral complexity.

Producer
Weingut Schätzel is a historic family estate in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, that embarked on a remarkable transformation when Kai Schätzel took over the then‑neglected property in 2008. Entirely self‑taught, Kai rapidly evolved into one of Germany’s most talked‑about new‑generation winemakers, earning membership in the prestigious VDP and being hailed as one of the fastest climbers in influential guides such as Gault Millau. Today, Schätzel is renowned for its uncompromisingly biodynamic approach, low yields, foot‑treading of whole clusters, spontaneous fermentations and maturation in large, old oak casks. Working closely with like‑minded growers—including friends such as Keller and Egon Müller—and with prized parcels on the Roter Hang, the estate has helped redefine what Rheinhessen Riesling can be: intensely mineral, feather‑light in alcohol yet profound in flavor, and endowed with serious aging potential. Many of Schätzel’s wines are now allocated and effectively sold out before bottling, underscoring the estate’s stature in the region and beyond.