Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Starderi 2022

Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Starderi 2022 is a pure, expressive Nebbiolo from one of Barbaresco’s most coveted crus. Crafted in tiny quantities, this wine captures the tension between elegance and structure that makes great Barbaresco so compelling. Coming from the Starderi vineyard, it offers a precise snapshot of Piemonte’s classic terroir in a vibrant, youthful vintage.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2022 Starderi shows a luminous garnet hue with the characteristic orange-tinged rim of Nebbiolo, even in its youth. The nose is intricate and lifted, opening with wild roses, violets and sour cherry, followed by notes of red currant, blood orange, licorice root, and a delicate hint of dried herbs and spice. On the palate, this Barbaresco is taut and finely etched, with juicy red fruit—think cherry, raspberry and pomegranate—wrapped around firm yet finely grained tannins. There’s a subtle savory undertone of leather, tobacco leaf and earth that promises further complexity with time. The acidity is vibrant and mouthwatering, driving a long, linear finish with notes of citrus peel, spice and dried flowers. While already appealing with a bit of air, the 2022 has the structure to evolve gracefully over 8–15 years, gaining depth, softness and more tertiary nuances.

Production
Starderi is a highly regarded vineyard in Barbaresco, known for its calcareous clay and sandy soils that give Nebbiolo both aromatic lift and a firm backbone. The vines sit on sun-drenched slopes in Piemonte’s rolling hills, benefiting from excellent exposure and the cool nights that preserve acidity and perfume. Olek Bondonio works with a decidedly artisanal, low-intervention approach: careful, mostly manual work in the vineyard, selective hand-harvesting at optimal ripeness, and a strict focus on healthy, balanced fruit. In the cellar, fermentation is traditionally conducted with native yeasts, often with extended maceration to gently extract tannins and structure, followed by aging in large neutral oak to preserve purity of fruit and terroir. The result is a Barbaresco that feels both authentic and finely sculpted, true to its place and producer.

Food & Serving
This Barbaresco shines alongside classic Piemontese dishes such as tajarin with ragù, brasato al Barolo (or other long-braised beef), and veal or game birds with truffle. It’s also excellent with mushroom risotto, grilled lamb, aged hard cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino, and richer poultry dishes. Serve at 16–18°C (about 60–64°F) to highlight the wine’s aromatics and balance. For a young vintage like 2022, decanting for 1–2 hours is recommended to soften the tannins and allow the floral, spicy notes to fully emerge.

Producer
Olek Bondonio is one of the most exciting small growers in Barbaresco, known for his hands-on, artisanal approach and unwavering dedication to expressing site-specific character. Working from family vineyards in some of the region’s top crus, he farms with great respect for the land, favoring low yields and minimal intervention both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Over the past years, Olek has gained a loyal following among sommeliers and enthusiasts who seek authentic, terroir-driven Nebbiolo with energy and personality. His wines, including this Barbaresco from Starderi, are now considered among the new benchmarks for thoughtful, craft-scale production in Piemonte.

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