Klaus Peter Keller Riesling Hipping Kabinett Alte Reben 2022 - Versteigerung white

Klaus Peter Keller’s Riesling Hipping Kabinett Alte Reben 2022 is a feather-light yet intensely concentrated Riesling from one of Germany’s most revered sites. Sourced from ancient vines in the legendary Hipping vineyard on the famed ‘Roter Hang’ in Rheinhessen, this special Versteigerung (auction) bottling captures the pure, filigreed essence of Kabinett. Precision in the vineyard and painstaking selection at harvest have yielded a wine that is at once crystalline, playful, and profoundly serious.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this Kabinett shines a pale, luminous straw with greenish reflections, hinting at both youth and freshness. The nose is immediately striking: flinty and lightly reductive at first, then opening to layers of lime zest, white peach, grapefruit pith, and green apple, with subtle hints of herbs, smoke, and wet slate that speak clearly of the red slate soils of Hipping. On the palate, the wine is featherweight and dancing, yet driven by impressive inner tension and concentration. Juicy citrus and stone fruit glide over the tongue, supported by a razor-sharp, salty acidity that cuts through the gentle natural sweetness. The interplay of sweetness and acidity is seamless, giving a sense of effortless balance and length. Already seductive in its youth, this Kabinett has excellent aging potential; over 10–20 years or more it should gain complexity, bringing out deeper notes of honey, herbs, and smoky slate while retaining its energetic core.

Production
The Riesling grapes for this wine come from old vines (“Alte Reben”) rooted in the iconic Hipping vineyard on the steep ‘Roten Hang’ slopes above the Rhine. Here, the distinctive red clay-slate soils warm quickly and store heat, giving the wines their trademark minerality, spice, and vivid fruit. Keller works with meticulous precision throughout the growing season, practicing strict yield control and careful canopy management to ensure optimal ripeness at relatively low must weights, ideal for Kabinett. Harvest is done by hand in multiple passes, with rigorous berry selection to capture only perfectly healthy, optimally ripe fruit. In the cellar, the must is handled gently, typically with a cool fermentation—often in stainless steel and/or large traditional wood—aimed at preserving purity, finesse, and fine reduction, and the residual sugar is naturally balanced by high, crystalline acidity rather than by any heavy intervention.

Food & Serving
This Kabinett’s interplay of sweetness, acidity, and minerality makes it exceptionally versatile at the table. It is superb with spicy Asian cuisine (Thai, Vietnamese, Szechuan), sushi and sashimi, ceviche, and delicately spiced dishes with ginger, lemongrass, or chili. Classic pairings include freshwater fish, light poultry, veal with cream sauces, and soft cheeses such as young goat cheese or mild blue. Serve well chilled, ideally around 8–10 °C, in a high-quality white wine or Riesling glass. A brief, gentle aeration in the glass or a short 15–20 minute decant can help the reductive, flinty notes to unfurl, but extended decanting is not necessary—this wine thrives on its tension and freshness.

Producer
Klaus Peter Keller is widely regarded as one of Germany’s greatest Riesling producers and a leading figure in the modern renaissance of Rheinhessen. Based in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, the Keller estate has gradually assembled parcels in some of the region’s most coveted sites, including the famed red-slate ‘Roter Hang’ vineyards such as Hipping. Over the past decades, the winery has helped redefine what German dry and off-dry Riesling can be, crafting wines that rival the world’s finest white wines in complexity, longevity, and precision. Keller’s top bottlings regularly achieve cult status at the annual VDP auctions and are highly sought after by collectors and sommeliers worldwide, cementing the estate’s reputation as a benchmark for both Rheinhessen and German wine as a whole.

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