Giuseppe Cortese, Barbaresco 2017

Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco 2017 is a classic, traditionally made Nebbiolo from one of Barbaresco’s most revered crus: Rabajà. This magnum bottling (1.5 L) captures the warmth and generosity of the 2017 vintage while staying true to the finesse and aromatic complexity that define great Barbaresco. Structured yet already inviting, it balances ripe fruit, fine tannins and vibrant acidity in a very harmonious way. Crafted from estate-grown Nebbiolo on calcareous marl slopes, this wine’s unique selling point is its combination of serious depth and early drinkability, thanks to the warm, dry vintage and Cortese’s restrained, old-school élevage in large Slavonian oak. Rabajà has long been considered one of the top sites in Barbaresco, producing wines with both power and elegance, and Cortese is regarded as one of the key standard-bearers of this historic cru.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2017 Barbaresco shows a luminous garnet core with orange-tinged reflections at the rim, typical of Nebbiolo even in its youth. Swirling reveals excellent viscosity, hinting at its concentration and 14.5% alcohol. The nose is refined yet expressive, opening with ripe red cherries and macerated raspberries, followed by violets, dried rose petals and a subtle hint of licorice. With air, more complex layers emerge: forest floor, leather, sweet tobacco, a touch of underbrush and gentle spice from large casks rather than overt new oak. On the palate, this is full-bodied and harmonious, with generous, sun-kissed fruit wrapped around a spine of fresh acidity. The tannins are ripe and polished but still Nebbiolo-firm, giving grip without harshness. Flavors of cherry, plum skin and dried strawberry are joined by notes of tobacco leaf, herbs and a savory, earthy undertone that carries through the long, persistent finish. The warm 2017 vintage brings a rounder, more approachable texture than cooler years, but the wine retains the tension and structure that make Barbaresco ageworthy. Already very enjoyable now, especially from magnum, this Barbaresco has the balance and structure to age gracefully for at least 10–15 years from vintage, gradually developing more tertiary nuances of truffle, dried flowers, balsamic notes and forest undergrowth.

Production
The fruit for Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco 2017 comes from the family’s holdings in Rabajà, one of Barbaresco’s most esteemed crus, characterized by calcareous marl soils, ideal exposure and hillside vineyards that deliver both concentration and finesse. The 2017 growing season in Piemonte was warm and dry, resulting in a relatively early harvest and small, highly concentrated berries with excellent phenolic ripeness. Cortese follows traditional, sustainable viticulture in the vineyard, with careful selection at harvest to ensure only the healthiest Nebbiolo grapes are used. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve aromatic purity and manage extraction, after which the wine is aged for 20–22 months in large Slavonian oak casks. This long maturation in neutral, large-format wood allows the tannins to soften and the wine to gain complexity, without masking the character of the terroir. Further bottle aging before release helps integrate the components and refine the texture.

Food & Serving
This Barbaresco is a natural partner for rich, savory dishes, particularly those from Piedmontese cuisine. Think braised beef or veal (osso buco, brasato al Barolo), slow-cooked lamb, game birds, roast duck, and mushroom-based dishes, especially with porcini or truffle. Mature hard cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano, aged Pecorino or alpine cheeses also work beautifully with its structure and aromatics. Serve at 16–18 °C; decanting for 1–2 hours is recommended, especially in its youth, to allow the bouquet to fully open and the tannins to relax. In magnum, the wine benefits even more from aeration and can comfortably accompany a long, multi-course meal.

Producer
The Cortese family has been cultivating vines in Barbaresco for generations, but it was Giuseppe Cortese who, in the latter half of the 20th century, firmly established the estate as a benchmark for traditional, terroir-driven Barbaresco. Based in the historic Rabajà cru, the winery has long been regarded as one of the most faithful interpreters of this exceptional hillside, favoring classic methods over modern trends: long macerations, aging in large Slavonian oak and a focus on purity over power. Today, the estate is run by the next generation, who continue Giuseppe’s commitment to expressing Barbaresco’s elegance and longevity while embracing thoughtful, sustainable practices in the vineyard. Cortese’s wines are widely respected among Nebbiolo enthusiasts for their authenticity, consistency and their ability to age gracefully while always remaining drinkable and refined.

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