Federico Starderini Sempremai Sorte Sortira Cuna 2017

Federico Staderini’s *Sempremai Sorte Sortirà Cuna 2017* is a rare and deeply characterful Tuscan red that explores the wild, untamed side of Italy’s viticultural heritage. Crafted from the ancient, semi-domesticated abrostine grape (a descendant of Pliny the Elder’s famed “labrusca”), it captures the soul of a variety that has one foot in the forest and one in the vineyard. This is not a polished, international-style red, but a distinctive, almost archaic expression of Tuscan terroir that rewards the curious and the patient drinker.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the wine shows a translucent yet vibrant ruby to garnet hue, with a slightly wild, unfiltered appearance that hints at its artisanal origins. The nose is intriguing and a touch elusive: notes of wild rosehip, sloe berry, and small red woodland fruits mingle with dried herbs, leather, and a faint feral edge reminiscent of bark, undergrowth, and wildflowers. There is a floral lift—somewhere between dog-rose and violets—woven through more savory hints of spice and dried leaves. On the palate, this is a taut, nervy red with a lean frame and pronounced, finely grippy tannins—very much “skin and bone,” echoing its wild ancestry. Tart red berries, cranberry, and rosehip dominate, supported by flavors of bitter cherry, blood orange zest, and a subtle, tonic-like herbal bitterness that gives the wine both structure and refreshment. The acidity is bright and persistent, carrying the flavors through a long, savory finish. While already expressive, the 2017 still has the backbone to evolve gracefully for another 5–8 years, with the potential for the wild, brambly notes to integrate further and the more delicate floral and tertiary nuances to emerge.

Production
The grapes for Sempremai Sorte Sortirà are grown on a sunny Tuscan hillside, where abrostine—derived from the wild *Vitis vinifera ssp. sylvestris*—is given a rare chance to show its character in a cultivated vineyard. The slope offers excellent exposure and drainage, while the cooler nighttime temperatures help this naturally late-budding, late-ripening variety retain its vital acidity and aromatic precision. Farming is meticulous and low-intervention, with careful hand-harvesting to ensure that only perfectly ripe, healthy clusters are brought to the cellar. In the winery, vinification follows a traditional, artisan path: spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, extended maceration on the skins to draw out color, tannin, and wild aromatics, and gentle handling throughout. Aging is typically in neutral vessels (often older wood) to preserve the grape’s singular personality, with minimal additions and light or no filtration before bottling.

Food & Serving
This distinctive Tuscan red is best matched with rustic, savory dishes that can stand up to its acidity and firm tannins. Think slow-braised game (hare, wild boar, venison), roasted lamb with herbs, Tuscan sausages and beans, grilled pork with fennel, or aged pecorino and other firm, salty cheeses. It also works beautifully with dishes featuring wild mushrooms, lentils, or bitter greens like cavolo nero. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F) to highlight its aromatics without emphasizing the tannin. Decanting for 30–60 minutes is recommended, especially in its youth, to allow the initial wildness to settle and the more delicate floral and red-fruited notes to come to the fore.

Producer
Cuna di Federico Staderini is a small, highly regarded Tuscan estate driven by the curiosity and vision of Federico Staderini, an oenologist with deep roots in Italian wine. Rather than chasing international styles, Staderini has focused on high-altitude and marginal sites, as well as historically overlooked or nearly forgotten varieties like abrostine. From his base in Tuscany, he has become a quiet but influential figure for those interested in authenticity, terroir, and the recovery of ancient grapes that risked disappearing from the landscape. The Cuna wines are produced in very small quantities and are sought after by enthusiasts who appreciate their purity, originality, and the way they challenge conventional expectations of what Tuscan red wine can be.

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