Fabrice Chaillou La Dévergondée Pet Nat white

La Dévergondée Pet Nat White from Fabrice Chaillou is a lively, naturally sparkling Chenin Blanc from France’s Loire Valley, crafted in the ancestral “Pétillant Naturel” style. Unfiltered, vibrant and joyously unrestrained, it captures the playful spirit hinted at by its name – “dévergondée” meaning shameless or unbridled. This bottling pays tribute to the free-spirited 1920s while reviving one of the oldest, most traditional ways of making sparkling wine.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, La Dévergondée typically shows a pale straw to light golden hue, often with a gentle haze that signals its minimal-intervention approach. The mousse is fine and energetic, with a persistent bead that gives the wine a refreshing, mouthwatering lift. On the nose, expect an expressive bouquet of crisp orchard fruits – green apple, pear, and quince – layered with lemon zest, white flowers, and subtle notes of fresh bread dough or brioche from the natural bottle fermentation. On the palate, this Pet Nat is bright, juicy and textured, with a core of citrus and stone fruit, a clearly defined mineral line, and vibrant acidity that keeps everything feeling precise and dry to off-dry, depending on the release. The finish is crunchy and saline, often with a faint savory or yeasty complexity. Pet Nats are crafted for youthful enjoyment rather than long-term cellaring, so this wine is best enjoyed within a few years of release while its fruit is at its most expressive and its bubbles at their most playful.

Production
Sourced from Chenin Blanc vines in the Loire Valley, La Dévergondée reflects a cool-climate terroir of limestone, clay and tuffeau that naturally lends the grape its hallmark tension and vivid acidity. Grapes are typically harvested by hand to preserve berry integrity and allow for careful selection in the vineyard. After a gentle pressing, the juice begins its primary fermentation in tank; then, while the first fermentation is still underway, the wine is bottled in pressure-resistant bottles so that the remaining natural sugars complete fermentation inside the bottle. This ancestral method, without added sugar or a separate second fermentation, traps the fine, naturally produced CO₂ and creates the signature soft, persistent sparkle of Pet Nat. The wine is usually made with minimal intervention, often with little or no dosage and only modest sulfur additions, to showcase Chenin Blanc and its Loire origins as purely as possible.

Food & Serving
La Dévergondée’s bright acidity and gentle bubbles make it a versatile companion at the table and a perfect bottle to open at the start of an evening. Pair it with fresh oysters, shrimp, ceviche or sushi, as its saline edge and citrus drive will enhance delicate seafood. It also works beautifully with goat cheese (a Loire classic), soft-rind cheeses, charcuterie, salads with citrus vinaigrettes, light poultry dishes and vegetable-driven tapas. Serve well-chilled at about 8–10 °C (46–50 °F) to highlight its freshness and fine mousse. A brief, gentle opening in the glass is usually sufficient; decanting is generally not necessary, though you may wish to pour carefully toward the end of the bottle if there is natural sediment, leaving the last splash in the bottle if you prefer a clearer glass.

Producer
Fabrice Chaillou is a small, quality-focused producer in the Loire, a region long revered for its Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc and increasingly recognized as a hotspot for characterful, naturally made sparkling wines. Working on a modest scale, Chaillou emphasizes vineyard expression and low-intervention cellar work, allowing Chenin Blanc to translate its cool-climate, limestone-rich origins with clarity and personality. Wines like La Dévergondée have helped strengthen the reputation of Loire Pet Nats beyond the natural wine niche, making them a serious – and seriously fun – alternative to more conventional sparkling wines while still honoring centuries-old regional traditions.

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