Comando G El Reventon 2022 MG

Comando G’s 2022 El Reventón in magnum format is a rare and highly sought‑after expression of mountain Garnacha from the rugged slate slopes of Cebreros in Vinos de Madrid. This is the final vintage of El Reventón bottled under the Comando G label before the vineyard passes fully to the new El Reventón project run by the Catena team, making it a true collector’s piece. Intense yet refined, it encapsulates the estate’s philosophy of harnessing altitude, old vines and minimal intervention to craft wines of striking purity and freshness, even in a challenging vintage.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, 2022 El Reventón shows a luminous, translucent ruby hue typical of high‑altitude Garnacha, with a delicate rim that hints at both finesse and concentration. The nose is immediately expressive and complex, weaving together wild red berries, blood orange zest and pomegranate with notes of crushed slate, dried herbs, rose petals and a subtle smoky, ferrous edge. There is a distinctive savory character that suggests umami and sea spray, adding depth beyond simple fruit. On the palate, the wine is intense yet ethereal, with a silken, almost weightless texture carried by bright, mountain acidity. Flavors of red cherry, wild strawberry and cranberry are layered with hints of black tea, dried thyme, fennel seed and a mineral, almost saline streak that speaks clearly of its slate soils. The tannins are fine, powdery and seamlessly integrated, framing the wine rather than dominating it. Despite the 15% stated alcohol, the wine feels remarkably fresh and poised, with no sense of heat, just a long, tapering, savory finish. In magnum, the 2022 has excellent aging potential: expect it to evolve gracefully over 10–15 years, gaining further aromatic complexity, spice and finesse while preserving its core of freshness.

Production
El Reventón comes from a singular, high‑altitude vineyard in Cebreros, set on poor, decomposed slate soils that naturally limit yields and confer a powerful mineral imprint to the wine. The site’s altitude and exposure help preserve acidity and aromatic lift in Garnacha, even in warmer years, making 2022 a triumph over the vintage conditions. Comando G typically farms these old vines organically and with a strong focus on biodiversity, harvesting by hand in small boxes to ensure only perfectly healthy, optimally ripe grapes reach the cellar. Vinification is minimalist and sensitive: whole or mostly whole clusters are gently fermented with native yeasts, extraction is kept very delicate, and élevage is carried out in large, neutral oak or concrete to respect the vineyard’s voice rather than imprinting heavy wood character. All of the 2022 wines from Comando G, including El Reventón, spent a longer period in barrel and/or tank before bottling, which has polished the tannins and knit the components into a harmonious, finely textured whole.

Food & Serving
This elegant yet intense mountain Garnacha is a superb match for refined, savory dishes that echo its umami and mineral complexity. Think roasted or grilled lamb with herbs, game birds like pigeon or partridge, slow‑cooked pork shoulder, or mushroom‑based dishes such as wild mushroom ragù, truffle pasta or a deeply flavored mushroom risotto. It also pairs beautifully with charcuterie, aged Manchego, and charred vegetables like eggplant, peppers and beets. Serve at 14–16°C (58–61°F) to highlight freshness and aromatic detail; avoid serving too warm to keep the alcohol perfectly integrated. Given the structure and youth of the 2022, decanting for 1–2 hours is recommended, especially from magnum, to allow the wine to open its floral, spicy and saline nuances.

Producer
Comando G, founded by friends and winemakers Daniel Gómez Jiménez‑Landi and Fernando García, has been at the forefront of the renaissance of Garnacha in the Sierra de Gredos, just west of Madrid. Working with old, often high‑altitude vineyards planted on granite and slate, they have redefined what Spanish Garnacha can be: pale‑colored, aromatic, precise and remarkably terroir‑driven, more akin to top Burgundy or northern Rhône than to traditional, heavier styles. Their work has placed Vinos de Madrid and the broader Gredos area firmly on the map of serious wine lovers, earning critical acclaim and cult‑like status for several single‑vineyard wines, including El Reventón. With the 2022 vintage marking the last El Reventón under the Comando G label before the dedicated El Reventón project from the Catena team takes over, this bottling represents both a high point and a historic closing chapter for one of Spain’s most influential new‑wave producers.

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