Azelia, Barolo San Rocco 1998

Azelia Barolo San Rocco 1998 is a mature, single-vineyard Barolo from one of Castiglione Falletto’s most respected, family-run estates. Sourced from low-yielding old vines, this is Nebbiolo in its classic, ageworthy form—powerful yet detailed, and now beautifully evolved in bottle. San Rocco is one of Azelia’s flagship crus, showcasing the depth and structure that made late‑90s Barolo such a landmark era for Piedmont.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 1998 San Rocco shows a deep garnet core with a brick-orange rim, a textbook sign of well-aged Nebbiolo. The color has softened from its youthful ruby intensity to something more transparent and burnished, inviting closer inspection. The nose opens with dried rose petals, tar, and potpourri—classic Barolo signatures—layered with leather, tobacco leaf, underbrush, and black tea. With air, notes of dried cherry, stewed strawberry, balsamic, truffle, and sweet spices (clove, anise, a hint of vanilla) begin to emerge, alongside faint hints of cedar and licorice. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with fine, resolved tannins that still carry a gentle grip along the gums. Flavors of dried red cherry, macerated raspberry, and blood orange unfold into savory tones of leather, cured meat, forest floor, and earthy spice. The acidity is vibrant and linear, keeping the wine fresh despite its age and giving lift to the long, nuanced finish, which lingers with notes of dried flowers, mineral, and gentle balsamic sweetness. A well-stored bottle of 1998 San Rocco is in its prime drinking window, showing full tertiary complexity while retaining structure and energy. It should continue to hold and develop nuanced detail for several more years, but this vintage is best enjoyed now through the near term, rather than cellared for extended decades.

Production
San Rocco is a renowned cru located in the hills near Serralunga d’Alba, an area known for its compact clay-limestone and marl soils that naturally restrict yields and produce nebbiolo with impressive structure and depth. Azelia farms its vineyards with a strong emphasis on low yields and old vines—many parcels are several decades old—resulting in small, highly concentrated berries. Grapes for Barolo San Rocco are typically harvested by hand, allowing careful selection of perfectly ripe bunches in the vineyard. In the cellar, Azelia follows a traditional yet precise approach: extended maceration on the skins to extract aroma, color, and tannin; fermentation with temperature control and often using native yeasts; and long aging in oak, primarily in large casks or a mix of large and smaller barrels, to polish the tannins without overwhelming the wine’s character. After maturation in wood, the wine spends further time in bottle before release, ensuring that San Rocco reaches the market with its structure integrated and its complexity already unfolding.

Food & Serving
With its mature complexity and classic Barolo structure, the 1998 San Rocco is a superb match for rich, savory dishes. Think braised beef or veal shank, osso buco, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, game birds, or dishes featuring truffle, wild mushrooms, and aged cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano or mature Pecorino. Traditional Piedmontese fare—tajarin with ragù, brasato al Barolo, or polenta with mushroom ragù—are natural partners. Serve at 16–18°C (approximately 60–64°F) to show both aromatics and structure at their best. Given the wine’s age, stand the bottle upright for several hours before opening to allow any sediment to settle, and decant gently 30–60 minutes before serving to wake up the aromatics without overexposing the wine.

Producer
Azelia is a fifth-generation, family-owned estate based in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of Barolo. The family has been producing wine since the early 1900s and today farms around 16 hectares of vineyards across Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, and Montelupo Albese. Their holdings are dominated by old-vine Nebbiolo, complemented by Dolcetto and Barbera, all vinified as varietal wines. Azelia is best known for its characterful single-vineyard Barolo bottlings, including crus like San Rocco and the flagship Barolo Riserva Bricco Voghera, made only in exceptional vintages from Nebbiolo vines over 95 years old and aged for an extraordinary period in oak and bottle before release. The estate has earned a strong reputation for combining traditional Barolo craftsmanship with meticulous vineyard work, making it a benchmark name in the Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga sectors of Piemonte.

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