2023 Van Volxem Alte Reben Riesling

The 2023 Van Volxem Alte Reben Riesling is a brilliantly precise expression of Saar terroir, crafted from deeply rooted old vines on some of the region’s steepest slopes. It marries crystalline freshness with remarkable depth, offering a wine that is both immediately charming and built for the cellar. This cuvée draws on Van Volxem’s historic holdings along the Saar River, where viticulture dates back to Roman times and the region has long been celebrated for its elegant, finely etched Rieslings.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2023 Alte Reben Riesling shows a pale straw to light lemon hue with green reflections, promising tension and youth. The nose is pure and finely detailed, opening with ripe orchard fruits—think green apple, white peach, and pear—layered with lime zest, white flowers, and a distinct slatey minerality. Hints of herbs and a gentle smokiness add complexity without ever feeling heavy. On the palate, the wine is taut yet generous, with a vibrant, racy acidity that carries juicy citrus and stone-fruit flavours across the tongue. The old vines contribute impressive concentration and a dense, almost saline core, giving the wine both length and a refined, textured mouthfeel. Wet stone, crushed slate and a whisper of spice linger on the long, precise finish. While already enjoyable in its youth for its purity and energy, this Riesling has excellent aging potential; over 8–12 years it should develop more nuances of honey, dried herbs and petrol, while retaining its signature Saar freshness.

Production
Alte Reben (“old vines”) is sourced from Van Volxem’s steep, predominantly south-facing vineyards along the cool Saar, a tributary of the Mosel. The soils here are dominated by weathered Devonian slate, which stores heat by day and releases it at night, helping grapes ripen slowly and evenly while preserving high natural acidity. The old vines, often deeply rooted in these poor, stony soils, produce naturally low yields of highly concentrated fruit. Harvest is carried out by hand in multiple passes to ensure optimal ripeness and meticulous selection. In the cellar, Van Volxem favours a gentle, minimalist approach: whole berries are carefully pressed, fermentation is typically spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, and the wine is matured on fine lees, primarily in stainless steel and large traditional wooden casks. This approach highlights purity, tension and terroir rather than overt oak influence.

Food & Serving
This finely structured Riesling is a versatile partner at the table, shining alongside fresh seafood such as oysters, ceviche, scallops and simply grilled fish, as well as sushi and sashimi. Its acidity and minerality also make it superb with lightly spiced Asian dishes, Vietnamese salads, Thai cuisine, and aromatic dishes featuring lemongrass, ginger or coriander. Classic pairings include goat’s cheese, soft-rind cheeses, and dishes with spring vegetables or asparagus. Serve well chilled at around 8–10°C. A brief 15–30 minutes in a carafe can help the wine open up aromatically in its youth, but extended decanting is not necessary.

Producer
Van Volxem is one of the Saar’s flagship estates, with roots tracing back to a Roman vineyard site later owned by a Jesuit monastery. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the estate’s wines were among the most sought-after white wines in Europe, featured on the wine lists of leading restaurants and hotels. Since its modern renaissance, Van Volxem has focused on restoring the prestige of dry and dry-leaning Saar Rieslings, investing heavily in steep, slate-rich single vineyards and meticulous, quality-driven viticulture. Today, the estate is widely regarded as a benchmark producer in the Mosel–Saar region, frequently lauded by international critics for its precise, terroir-driven wines that combine intensity, finesse and age-worthiness.

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