2023 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewächs

The 2023 Emrich-Schönleber Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewächs is a benchmark dry Riesling from one of Germany’s most revered single vineyards. Crafted exclusively from top parcels in the famed Felseneck site, this wine captures the crystalline precision and mineral depth that have made Emrich-Schönleber a reference point for serious Riesling lovers. As a Grosses Gewächs (GG) from the Nahe, it represents the highest level of dry Riesling classified by the VDP, Germany’s elite growers’ association.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2023 Felseneck GG shows a pale straw to light lemon hue with green reflections, signaling freshness and youth. The nose is intense yet finely etched, with layers of lime zest, white peach, green apple, and grapefruit intertwined with wet stone, flint, and a subtle herbal lift—think lemon balm and fresh mint. Hints of white flowers and delicate smoke add complexity as it opens. On the palate, this is razor-sharp and precise, with vibrant acidity driving a focused, linear profile. Citrus and stone-fruit notes—lime, mirabelle, and crunchy pear—sit atop a pronounced salty, stony minerality that is the signature of Felseneck. The texture is both tensile and refined, with impressive concentration yet no heaviness. The finish is very long, carried by citrus peel, crushed rock, and a faint, mouthwatering salinity. While already compelling in its youth, this 2023 GG has significant aging potential; expect it to evolve beautifully over 10–15+ years, gaining more complexity, depth, and tertiary nuances of honey, spice, and dried herbs.

Production
The Felseneck vineyard is one of the crown jewels of the Nahe, a steep, south to south-west–facing slope with predominantly slate and quartzite soils that confer remarkable tension, purity, and mineral drive to the Riesling. Emrich-Schönleber works these demanding vineyards largely by hand to ensure optimal selection and gentle handling of the fruit, harvesting late to achieve perfect physiological ripeness while preserving bright acidity. Only the best, meticulously sorted Riesling grapes from the top parcels are used for this Grosses Gewächs. Fermentation typically takes place in stainless steel and/or large, neutral German oak (Stück or Doppelstück) casks with carefully managed, often spontaneous fermentations to preserve terroir expression, followed by extended lees contact to refine texture and complexity without masking the vineyard’s signature clarity.

Food & Serving
This Felseneck GG is an outstanding partner for refined, subtly aromatic cuisine. Pair it with dishes such as ceviche or tartare of sea bass, sashimi and sushi, grilled or poached white fish with citrus or herb sauces, or shellfish like scallops, crab, and lobster. It also shines with fine poultry, veal in light cream sauces, and high-quality vegetable dishes—think white asparagus, fennel, or artichoke with herb butter—alongside mildly spicy Asian cuisine where freshness and acidity provide a perfect counterpoint. Serve at 9–11°C (48–52°F) to highlight its precision and aromatics. Decanting for 30–60 minutes in its youth can help the wine unfurl and reveal additional layers; with bottle age, simply allow it to open slowly in a larger-bowled white wine glass.

Producer
Emrich-Schönleber is a family-run estate based in Monzingen in the Nahe, and is widely regarded as one of Germany’s top Riesling producers. Over generations, the Schönleber family has painstakingly assembled and cultivated prime parcels in some of the region’s finest steep-slope vineyards, including the legendary Halenberg and Felseneck sites. Their philosophy centers on meticulous, quality-focused viticulture, low yields, and minimal-intervention winemaking to let each terroir speak clearly. As a long-standing member of the VDP, the estate has helped define what modern, world-class dry Riesling from Germany can be, regularly earning top scores from international critics and securing its status as a benchmark producer in the Nahe and beyond.

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